KDTM804EBS2 KitchenAid - Instructions

Shut off water and power,remove dishwasher, put dishwasher on its back, remove screws with Phillips screwdriver and reinstall

1. Remove front of door with torx screws around inside top and sides of door.
2. Unclip and remove plug with two wires for dish soap solenoid. You may have to lie on your back or use a mirror to see the location of the small clip retaining the plug.
3. Unclip and remove dispenser module. Here's the rub: the clips used to retain the unit in the door panel of my dishwasher are tabs cut in the stainless steel cut-out and rolled back at a 90 degree angle to retain their springiness. They seat against the back edge of three plastic ridges along the top, bottom and one along each side of the dispenser module. The key is to remove the module without permanently bending these tabs, thereby losing their springiness and destroying their ability to clip tight against the new module to hold it in. I had some success slipping 3 pieces of flashing under the stainless tabs along the top and sides of the old module, allowing the plastic retaining ridges to ride under the tabs all together and move forward to disengage the clips without permanently bending the tabs.
4. Reassembly is just the reverse.

I ordered the part from this website and easily replaced it.

easy the sensor was on the right side, and easy to get to, I turn off the power, turned off the water, and pulled it out, the first thing I saw was the yellow wires and plug. took about 5 minutes, to replace it.

Upper tray removed and each rack adjuster removed and replaced one after the other. Only tool was screwdriver. Only knowledge was from the online videos. Only took 30 minutes or so. The repair could have been done more quickly if I wasn't fearful that the smaller plastic parts would break when pulled or pried away from the rack adjuster. The only mistake was not making sure the adjuster tabs were fully engaged in back and clicked in the front attachment.

After replacing garbage disposal. I referred to you video you sent me when i received the new replacement hose. That made it look very easy to install. Thank you for all your help and support.

First I got online to troubleshoot issue to save mysel from a service call. One of the first UTube videos, a young man said usually the main issue was the lever. He pushed down on the floater. If it didn't click, than the lever below needed to be replaced. Most important to turn off the circuit breaker before beginning the repair. I got on whirlpool.com, Part Select, ordered the lever, which was under $10. And once delivered, was able to switch out the old lever with the new replacement. Part Quote video took me through the process step by step. The lever package was marked that usually it was only 2% of the time that replacing the lever fixed the issue. Of course, I was thrilled, my dishwasher was up and running again. Thank you.

Kill power to unit. Turn off water supply. Remove front access panel. Remove screw holding valve housing. Remove valve. Disconnect water lines. Replace valve in housing. Reconnect water lines with addition of thread tape. Reinstall valve and housing.

Watch video and followed instructions. Very easy!

Recently bought a whirlpool dishwasher, the dishwasher was converted to a portable dishwasher and they did not use the cord application power cord so they machine was blowing our breaker, instructions were very simple and installation was easy!

I looked at the position of the remaining Tine Pivot, since there are four on this dishwasher upper rack, and positioned the replacement pivot and pressed it into place. It was a snap (excuse the pun!). NOTE: My dishwasher's Model Number was not in the list provided herein. I had to search a couple of models to find the Upper Rack that looked like ours and to find the Tine Pivot replacement part that looked like ours.That process took longer than the "repair".

1) Pull out dishwasher from under counter. 2) Disconnect spring located at the bottom on each side of dishwasher. 3) Using socket remove pulley wheels from each side at bottom. 4) Install new pulleys on each side. 5) Wind pulley cord around both wheels and attach to one end of the spring on each side. 6) Using pliers extend other spring end to lower frame of dishwasher on each side. 7) Open and close dishwasher door to test. 8) Replacement complete

My wife hired a local repairman when the right side spring cable broke (I was out of town). He took two hours to fix it (and two appointments). The door would then pop open when running. He came back and replaced the latch. Problems persisted. I then ordered new hinges and replaced both in half hour or so. Would recommend doing all of these repairs yourself. None of these repairs are that hard and definitely not worth paying hundreds to do it. Trickiest part is pulling the dishwasher out from the counter without impacting the electrical or water connections. Disconnecting the power is important on all repairs. When you take the screws out of the door to get to the hinges, make sure you have a helper just to hold the door up while removing the last few screws. The left side hinge was really bent (when the right side spring cable broke) - caused the door to be out of square and thus would not effectively close. This was obvious after a 5 minute search on this this and other repair sites. Process that I used: 1. remove screws from both sides holding dishwasher into counter (may have screws into countertop as well). 2. turn off power, 3. pull out dishwasher far enough to see hinges and springs (careful of connections), 4. remove front door screws, 5. take off front panel, 6. remove spring cables (pull cable taut and remove "hook" from hinge)., 7. unscrew two screws holding hinge to door, 8. bend metal fingers around hinge pin to be able to remove hinge., 9. attach hinge in opposite path. 10. repeat on other side (if necessary), 11. reconnect things in opposite order...test door prior to reattaching door panel. Make sure you level the unit with the adjustable feet. Make sure screws in sides of cabinet aren't too tight as it can take the unit out of square pretty easily...

Attached new link, then stretched the spring with pliers and routed link over the pulley. Replaced both links.

It was very easy.