11047787800 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

This repair is something even the most casual DIY'er could accomplish. What made this even easier for me was the fact that my washer was on a pedestal so accessing the 1/4" screws were extremely easy. There is no need to tilt or lift the washer. Just open the drawer and all three screws are visible. It also made draining the water out of the washer very convenient. The video perfectly describes how to accomplish the repair and allowed me to diagnose the problem by taking off the panel, opening the trap door and allowing the water to drain into a small trashcan until all the water is removed. I could physically see that the impeller was detached from the motor and found the culprit that caused the problem - a small vile of eye drops... From there, ordered the pump, two days later, replaced it with the new and I swear the new pump must be stronger than the original because towels come out near dry after a spin cycle. Very satisfying repair!

Followed directions as shown in your repair video, having done this for the first time it took a bit longer than a repairman would have but was able to git-r-done. The most difficult part was fitting the adjustable wire back around the front of the washer, in the video it is made to look really easy however in real life it is a little more difficult and could not be attached so easily and took quite a bit of time to make sure it was attached correctly. thank you for your help.

raised front of machine about 6 inchs bigest pain is getting water out after that its easy.open drain just a bit other wise it will pour out all over about 4 pots worth if its full

Removed the outer spring with pliers. Pushed the bellow into the drum. Loosened the clamp on the bellow with a stub nose screwdriver. Removed the bellow. lined bellow up with soap fiting. Reversed procedure to reinstall.

Turn water off at the inlet valve of hose you are replacing. Disconnect inlet hose the washer and let water drain out in a bucket. Then remove old hose. Replace new hose to inlet valve then washer . Use pliers to tighten both ends. Turn on water to check leaks at both ends of hose.

replaced actuator switch. It did not fix the problem. Replaced actuator arm, and fixed. Needed the switch because gears were stripped. Needed the arm because it seems over time, the arm straightened, thereby increasing its length so that the rotation of the switch bound up during its cycle.

Shocks are the #1 recommendation for this problem, but they were not the solution. The problem turned out to be broken weld in the stainless tub. Three of the shocks can be replaced from the front, the one under the motor can only be accessed from the back of the machine, which means it has to be pulled out away from the wall. Taking the old ones out is kind of a pain, they don't twist off easily and there is little room to use tool. Putting the new ones in is easy, they just twist into place.

This was an easy fix . PartSelect was quick and had all the info I needed to repair my washer. Plus shipping was super fast. Thanks

The end of the strike had broken off, and the pictures did not clearly show there was a cross-member at the end of the strike. That crossmember is what broke on the old strike. The strike has only two screws, both requiring a Torx bit (#20, I believe). Unscrew both screws to remove the strike plate. It was a little difficult to get out - it has a curved top to lock into the top slot, but the bottom slides slightly down into another slot. There isn't a lot of room in the opening to slide the strike up and down and get it out. Putting the new strike on is easier - ensure the curved end fits into the slot at the top and slide it up just a bit, push the bottom of the strike plate in, then let it drop right into place, and reinsert the screws. The only problem I had was the strike's holes for the screws are slotted horizontally, so the strike can be positioned across almost 3/8". The latch would not engage the strike the first time, so I had to loosen the screws and reposition the strike a bit. This time it latched, but the fit wasn't quite right, so I adjusted it again to get it where I needed it.

open the front bottom panel (3) screws. remove panel. twist off old shocks by turning the shock counter clockwise. reinstall shock by turning clockwise.

Well first of all when you buy this washer, the salesperson should tell you about checking the drain catch (ahead of the pump) and emptying out whatever get's caught in there. Never had a clue until it wouldn't work, then did a search on the internet, and darn if I didn't find specific instructions on how to open and clean out. Mine was packed full of hair pins, small change, lint, buttons, etc, all kinds of stuff. Guessing that is why the pump went out in the first place, it was so packed full that the pump could not draw any water through. But even after I cleaned it out, the pump was already shot. So called a service man, he said the pump would cost me around $200, then his labor to put it in, plus a $68 service call to just come and look at it, and $68 when he comes back to replace it. So I searched the internet for how to replace, came up with a very detailed You Tube video on how to replace Whirlpool Duet Pump. So ordered my pump from PartsSelect, just over $100, and replaced it myself. Super easy, only about 5 minutes. Thanks! —A very determined housewife!

Very --simple remove front acess panel -- open sump clean out remove water out of existing pump an hoses with small wet dry vac -- remove small wire harnes --cut band clamp on discharge with side cutter --remove inlet -suction side of pump hose clamp with channel locks --un bolt two screws on bottom side of washer with 5/16 nut runner --discard old pump reinstall new one in reverse order --only takes about 20 mins total !!! ---

I had replaced the flowmeter, but that didn't solve the problem, so I ordered the hot/cold solenoid fill part. Other than ONE screw that was unique -- the back retaining screws were nut driver screws, the one retaining screw was a torx which, of course, couldn't be seen unless you pulled the washer all the way out. Unscrewed that, unhooked the hose clamp with pliers and worried the hose off, removed the four electrical connections (which were TIGHT) and replaced the part. Turned on the water and was dismayed to get a d/l error code. After some colorful language learned from my drill sergeant 40 years ago, I realized that was "door lock" and closed the door tightly. Ran great and the Mrs. thinks I'm a hero.

I watched the video and it really was as easy as it looks. Great shipping time, I ordered the pump Monday and it arrived on Thursday, standard ground shipping!

I started by dismounting the door from the washer, then placed the door on a flat counter with a towel underneath to avoid scratching. I unscrewed all the bolts securing the the frame. Once the frame was removed, I dismounted the broken door hinge and secured the new one in reverse order. Just a little time and patience. Job completed with no mess!