MEDC200XW1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Kill power to dryer from breaker box.Remove lint filter & 2 screws. Take a flat head screw driver and place in gap between rash from corner of top panel & front panel of dryer and pry up to raise top panel of dryer & rest against wall the wall on angle do it doesn’t fall back toward you. Unplug wiring harness from dryer switch inside top front corner of dryer with outside of drum exposed when top panel of dryer is raised. Open dryer door and remove screws on each side of dryer switch located at upper inside corner of door opening. Take flat head screwdriver had slide in between connector & wiring harness on dryer. Remove old switch. Reconnect new dryer switch to wiring harness & remount switch to inside of dryer door opening. Lower top panel of dryer & press front corners of top panel to front panel of dryer & clips will be locked in place. Replace screws in dryer filter mounting holes yo top panel & replace dryer filter in place. Turn on power ‘ & check if light is working 1st. Then, turn timer knob clockwise, close door and listen if the drum is turning. Open door to see if drum turns. If both work, the job is complete.

We watched the video on ur website! Thank you

YOU NEVER SENT ME THE PARTS!!!
I had to drive to a parts store to find them. On January 17, 2024, I tried to call you when the parts did not arrive and your recording said there were no reps available and you hung up. WE CANNOT GET HELP TO CANCEL THIS ORDER. We have been going in circles with PartSelect and shipping. SO, how do I get my refund of the $107.26 for the parts that I never received!!

Took the top off and then front off and drum out . Replaced Drum roller and shaft support bolts.

put the high limit in , plus the temperature , plus the exhaust switches

After getting the part and sizing up what to do. I removed the 6 1/4 hex nuts from the back. I removed the 2 hinge nuts 3/8 and popped the lid of the dryer up. It wasn't coming up all the way. I removed the lint filter and removed the two #1 Phillips screws that held the lid to the duct and it came up easy.The switch itself was clipped together and came apart with ease. 2 #1 Phillips screws held the switch in place and quickly tightened down the new switch. I clipped the new switch to the old lead and just reversed the order putting it back together. The light worked and the drum stopped when the door was opened during the cycle. The part matched perfectly and there was no guess work about clearance. It was an easy repair.

removed the back housing of the dryer and located the thermal switch. unscrewed the old one, popped in the new one and whala! I was back in business!

put the back cover back on the dryer and pushed it back into place.

after i got the replacement filter, it fit perfectly. the filter is white & my dryer is beige but i don't care...i'm just happy i have a good lint filter again, for my at least 30 year old dryer....thanks part select!

first i removed the back cover by removing the six 1/4 inch screws then i removed the wires to the thermal switch there were three of them and using an ohm meter i checked each one for continuity until i found the one that had an open circuit. i removed the two 1/4 inch screws holding it in place and replaced it with the new one.

Determined that the door switch was not making contact. Removed the lint screen, removed two screws in the lint screen housing, pulled the top of the dryer up at the front of the dryer. This provided access to the door switch which was mounted on top.

The brightness of the light was because the door switch was allowing too much current to the light bulb when the door was open but the switch would not swich the current to the dryer motor when the door was closed. After a day or so of this bright light it burned out. I removed the two screws on top that hold the lint trap in place then I could access the switch by sliding the top of the dryer forward and lifting the it as you would lift the hood of a car. The switch is on the right side and plugs into a three wire connector and only fits in one way. Cheap and easy fix after unplugging the dryer from the wall power outlet.

I followed disassembly directions found on youtube and replaced th two-piece ring bearing that was identified by a parts diagra fron PartSelect. The repair was easy. Fix time was about thirty mionutes.

I actually bought $254 worth of parts almost to point of rebuilding , which included both roller axles, drum belt, idler pulley, both rollers, the cloth that wraps around the drum for edging, and light bulb. 15 years before this the heater element and thermostat and the belt. This dryer is 27 years old and still being used on a daily basis. The mechanical parts and no LED components can last a life time. The wife always wants new, but this dryer with alittle love and patience is a workhorse. I'm thankful for websites like this. The videos are helpful! Thank you Parts Select! Sincerely, MIke Orkin

1 Vice grips are required to remove the fan/blower. Clamp on inside of dryer so you can remove the blower/fan assembly

Recommend 10" or larger 14" will definitely do the job

2. Blower/fan is reverse threaded when facing the back of the dryer. That is how I broke mine. Turn clockwise to loosen - feels very unnatural

3. If you have to replace the 5 & 6 electrical connectors, you have to have a barrel crimper for insulated terminals - IWISS SN-02C RATCHET TERMINAL CRIMPING PLIER TOOL, 24-14AWG is a good example

Took apart front of cabinet, set aside. Undid the belt drive. Removed the drum. Noticed rear seal was with large gap where it wore away, causing the lint to leak onto the interior of cabinet. Ordered a new seal, removed old seal, prepped for new seal. Used spring clamp to hold new one on place. Applied the glue to hold seal in place waited 24 hrs to dry. Reinstalled drum, put cabinet back together. Plugged in ran whisper guiet.