MEDC200XW1 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

first with the dryer unpluged ,i removed the wires from the upper thermal cut off ,then with a nut driver i removed it . replaced it with the new one and reattatched the two wires then the same on the bottom thermal . to replace the spring i removed the two screws pulled out the switch and spring at the same time ,removed the broken spring and replaced it onto the switch then placed it back into the dryer and replaced the screws.! everything worked like it han never been broke! my wife is verry happy!!!

I put in the new parts but it still did not work, Turned out the Thermal Fuse Blew,removed the two wires and clipped them together and the Dryer worked, have to replace the Thermal fuse and everything will be OK.

Watch the video before I received the part. Made it very simple to replace and which screws to take out.

I removed all the screws to the back panel to gain access to the inside. checked all thermostats and fuses for conductivity (0.001 ohms) resistance. noticed the thermal cut off fuse (thermostat) was showing no conductivity (infinite ohms or OL). FYI the thermal cut-off kit I purchased included both the thermal cut-off fuse(why this is called fuse is a lie its actually a thermostat) and high limit thermostat. I'm seeing alot of users purchasing these seperate but it isn't neccessary. You might need some wire strippers with a crimper though to install everything.

Remove backpanel, ohms cut off thermostat, no good, disconnet two wires from defective part and installed a new one.

I removed the two screws underneath the lent trap the removed the two screws that held the dryer switch assembly. I then lifted up the top and disconnected the door switch assembly. Removing the door switch assembly was the toughest part, and it was not difficult. Simply grab a pair of pliers and pull. I the attatched the new door switch assembly and the four screws and my dryerwas as good as new. I paid around $20.00 including shipping and saved myself a couple of hundred dollars

I attempted to take the back panel off the dryer only to discover all I had to do (after removing 10 or so screws) is remove the lower base plate in the front of the dryer. I also had removed the door which turned out to be unnecessary. After removing a guard in front of the heating element (2 screws) I yanked the the element housing that contained the heating element and then disconnected the 6 wires. Using my first ever, newly bought multi meter for only $9.99 from Radio Shack, I turned the dial to the infinity section and check the element for continuency. I did this by touching the meter's two probes to the element's terminals were the wires connect. The element was fine. Then I checked the two sensors the same way. The sensor furtherest away from the element's terminals didn't have a constant signal so I assumed that that sensor was bad. Well, come to find out, one sensor is open and the other in closed... only when the temp. changes do they operate by opening and closing the current. By this time I had already ordered the part so it was too late. Surprisingly, the part came in 2 days. I ordered it Sunday night and i figured it would be sent out Monday but it was already in the air Monday morning... Great service! I replaced both sensors and the dryer works like it did when I first got it.

Used the trouble shooting tips provided as a guide and a multimeter to test and find the defective part. Testing indicated no continuity thru the high limit thermostat. I ordered the part and received it in 3 days. Had the repair done a full week before the repairman could even come to the house and saved well over $100 in repair costs and 2 weeks or longer of down time. Great website and service.

Removed old door switch and tested with ohms meter. It registered as charged, but when black button was pushed it did not cut off (go to zero). Replaced the part just like the video showed. Only problem i had was dropping my screwdriver down into the dryer well. It was doing no harm so i left it there since i tried retrieving from the back but was not able to get entire back off!

Purchased new heating element and replaced. This was the number one recommendation for the fix for my problem. I do not have any measurement devices to check any of the parts. This was trial and elimination. The old element was badly burnt. Still no heat. The second recomendation was the thermal fuse. I purchased that and replaced. Still no heat. After reading through some of the repair forums on this site I decided to try one more time and replace the thermal cut off kit. A little harder to do because it required cutting and replacing some wire ends. That was the problem. We now have heat and once again I have a happy wife! I left the new element and the fuse in. The dryer heats much faster than it did.
The repair videos on this site were very helpful. Some of the wire changes on the Thermal Cut-off Kit can be very confusing.

Pulled the dryer out from the wall and laid it on its front on a blanket.Removed the back panel.Disconected the two switches and replaced them with the new ones.Cleaned up dryer replaced back panel and returmed the dryer to its original place and she works just fine.

There are many good youtube Kenmore/Whirlpool door switch replacement demos online. The one already done by this site )was close enough for me. I could see that the door switch on my dryer was bad (the plastic part that the door makes contact with was visibly broken, as seen from the outside) -- so I ordered a new one. You don't have to open the top fully to access the switch wiring harness -- i propped it open with a roll of duct tape, The hardest part for me was to disconnect the old switch from the harness (I used a small flat bladed screwdriver to free it). Be careful, the metal inside the opened dryer is sharp, and can cut you.

Remove the lint screen, then remove the two (2) Phillips screws that are at the entrance of the lint screen compartment. Take a putty knife and insert it under the top pannel of the dryer about 1” in from the outside and push the putty knife in as you lift that corner of the pannel. Repeat on the other side. Then raise the lid and prop it up. The door switch is on the right side just behind the door on the inside. Open the door and remove the two screws that hold the switch and remove the switch. Install the new switch like the old one came out and close it up you’re ready to go! It is very easy you can’t hurt anything.

Ignor installation video. it is for a different model dryer. The part is not accessed from rear. It is accessed from the front panel. Disconnect power. Remove two screws below front panel with cross head screwdriver. Swing panel up until it releases. No need to disconnect wires just put front panel down beside the dryer. Thermostat located right in front on duct easy to identify since it has four leads. Remove wires with needle nose pliers. Remove thermostat with nut driver. Contacts are labeled but hard to read. Hold thermostat so the lead number 3 (the 3 will be upside down) is on the left. Connect blue wire. White wire to top. Purple wires to bottom and right. Reverse removal procedure and you are done.