GSS23GYPFCFS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

YOU SENT THE WRONG PART AFTER I SPECIFICALLY DESCRIBED IT AND SAID, NOT THE SMALL PART FOR THE BOTTOM, THE LARGE ONE FOR THE MIDFLE. THEN YOU MADE ME PAY DELIVERY CHARGES TO SEND IT BACK.

In preparation, I removed the bottom crispers and shelf to clear space, and removed the hood and items above the tank near the light. You'll need to also move the fridge away from the wall to access the back. Installation seemed very easy - two screws holding the tank itself, one hose to the water supply in the back, and another to the bottom of the freezer door to dispense. Then the hard part started after it was installed. First, I could hear the click but no water was coming out. After several views of youtube videos, I realized there was a plug in the hose to the supply side. Duh! So now I had water, but also a slow drip when drawing water. I believe the issue was that I was not pushing the hose on firmly enough, and eventually I got it right. Also, you need to understand the connector: there is a little ring around the place the hose fits; pushing it TOWARD the housing releases the hose, and pulling it back AWAY locks the hose it place. That was not clear to me without watching a youtube video.

Followed steps found on YouTube. The only missing instruction was to remove the small retaining clip from the water tube inlets to allow you to press the retaining circle down to release the tube

The door stop is held by 2 TORX screws and can be removed in place without raising the refrigerator. The only tricky part is that you only have about 2 inches of clearance so it is hard to locate/see the screw heads. I used a small mirror to help me align the tool with the screw. If you have a small ratchet with a TORX socket it will make your installation go much faster. Each turn of the tool required me to remove and reinsert the tool. This is what takes up so much time.

Needed to remove and replace the door stop. It was held on by tow screws that are about 3 inches from the floor. God a hex driver and small ratchet to hold the hex head. unscrewed the old and replaced the new. I did take a picture with my phone and it showed the two screws.

First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.

Replaced flapper valve per website instructions. GE factory technician took two weeks to get here, charged over $100 for the call and told us we needed a new refrigerator door at a cost of over $500 to fix the problem. We sent him packing. After visiting the PartSelect website, the $5.88 PartSelect flapper valve fixed the problem. Amazing.

removed 6 screws and repaced cover.

with a small screwdriver push in tabs in upword movement to remove the face cover for the three botons of ice crushed ice and water .
once removed remove four screw to take out the circular door .
solinoid plunger will be atached to the door and it has to screws holding the solinoid .
instolation is the oposit steps of removing the part

I used a mirror to locate the two small plastic tabs located on the underside of the ice dispenser light. I used a small flat blade screwdirver to push the plastic tabs forward to release the ice/water selector unit. I read about someone that did not see the tabs and ended up removing the inside of the freezer door, a two hour task! The ice and water control unit then slides out. remove the four rusty screws holding the dispensert and ice chute, the selenoid isthen easy to see.
Just replace the solenoid if your are having problems, I tried to lube it but to now avail. There is some rust in there so good time to clean up and put new screws in. Be care when removing the plastic lock tab on the circut board it breaks easely. If it does no big deal just make sure the connection is pushed in all the way. test your handy work before buttoning up. The solenoid comes with a new plunger so don't worry about cleaning the old one. The screws do not come with.

Take the face (the part with the buttons on the outside) off, disconnect wired connectors (three), take the screws out of the part behind that (4), and then find the solenoid value (on the right). It's attached with three screws. Mine was rusted beyond belief. I knew this was the problem, ordered a new solenoid valve, put it back in place with three screws (use new screws that fit, not the old rusty ones if possible). When testing, make sure you give the flap a couple of seconds to close. There is a delay, and I initially wasn't patient enough so I had to disassemble and assemble an extra time because of this.

Simply put: If your solenoid value is rusted and the value won't operate smoothly, order the part and install it. This is as easy as any repair could be.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

remove the front of were the ice and water comes out
then un scerw 4 scerw and the solenoid slides out unhook the wires and put the new one in

Ordered new solenoid so the flap would close. That did the trick.

Went on this site, found out many others like me had the flap door stuck open problem, it would not shut after you went for ice. I needed a new solenoid that opens when the ice is dispenced and closes afterwards not allowing the warm ambient air to come up the shoot which frosts the ice and melts it. It shipped QUICK and now I have a working ice maker dispenser from the outside. Its been 2 YEARS of opening the door and reaching into the ice maker bin for ice! Thanks PartSelect