GS2327EADW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped out the old switch and replaced it with the one dying

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

Just plugged it in

Removed all screws on back and 4 on front. That part is easy IF you have a Torx of the right size. Slip out the ice bin a bit and replace the drive ring. Reassembly is a bit harder since some internal shift can occur -- rotate or tilt the whole assembly to get two -- I think -- screws started. No need to over tighten screws; snug is good enough.

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

Inserted the prongs of the replacement shut-off arm in the holes provided in the bracket.

The repair was easy ... the big relief was finding a correct replacement for a fairly old appliance

There was three screws to remove to unmout the ice maker, and unplug the wire harness,then two to remove to slip in new stripper. All took about 20 mins.

Supported door in the closed position to keep door from falling with wood 2X4s. After that it was easy to replace lower hinge.

Repair was tremendously easy. All I did was remove old light switch by prying out with screw driver and plugging in the new light switch and pushing it into the hole. Simple! The instructions weren't needed, but they were very thorough.

Pulled broken plastic end stop from door. Basket fits right into the two side holes and pulls down to lock. Relatively easy fix and replacing basket stop.

Make sure power is off- throw circuit breaker and check with tick tracer.
remove spill tray by sliding it out.
unscrew two torx at bottom of outer frame
flip the frame up to get acces to disconnect wire harnes.
unscrew 3 screws on each side and two on the top.
gentle wiggle mechanism from the door.
disconnect wire harness.
take the unit to a good working surface like the kitchen table.
Disconnect two scres holding wire limit switch in place.
remove switch and disconnet two spade connectoed wires.
connect spade wires to new limit swtich.
screwm back in place.
turn over the unit.
remove the actuator pad (no tools required) it wraps around the unit and has little slots that hook over little tabs on the back edge of the unit. (tought ot describe in words but my 5 year old could probably do it)

First I removed the three screws in the top hinge that hold the upper right corner of the door to the body of the unit. Then I just lifted the door off of the refrigerator. I proped the door up just long enough to pull out the old pin (plastic) and put the new one in place. Next I picked up the door and set it on the new hinge, and last I put the three screws back into place. It has taken me about as long to type this out as it did to actually make the repair. The part was also very reasonably priced so I purchased two since this items has been replaced previously.

Unplug fridge. Pull out drip tray at the bottom of the dispenser, remove 2 screws under it. Remove 2 screws holding dispenser to fridge. Disconnect wiring harness. Replace switch and Actuator pad. Re assemble in reverse order and plug the fridge back in. Have a cold glass of water, with ice, and no overflow on the floor. Saved quite a bit of $ to boot!