11084090410 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

>removed 2 screws connecting the vent filter to the top lid of the unit (just in front of removable filter).
>Losing two screws at the back of the machine, just below control panel to allow free movement of the top lid on its hinges.
>Raise top lid & supported open.
>Now have free access to door switch (inside , front right fastened to front panel)
>removed the old switch
>fasten new switch (required new wire connector which was supplied with package) to existing wiring and replaced.
>Works perfectly!

removed top panel and back panel
and then disconect the two wire fromm water inlet
fallow by removing screws.disconect water hose
then put back new part make sure i have all same conected as original put back panel top and back
conected hose for water back and electric .
then i turned 0n cold water perfect work hot water perfect warm perfect. problem fixed.
thanks. pedro

First - I saw the picture of the part on your site. It made all the difference.
Then, I turned off the water supply, unplugged the washer, removed the screws holding the backing plate on the washing machine to expose the valve.
After that, it was as easy as removing two mounting screws, disconnecting the solenoids (just two connections), pulling out the old valve and replacing it with the new.
Pretty simple and a lot less pricey when you can wait a few days for a part to come in the mail.

I wish I could be more specific, but I had a bit of trouble getting the back off the washer. I removed the control panel on the top of the machine and that allowed me to get to the two clips that secured the back onto the unit. The I removed additional screws on the back until I was able to pull the back away from the frame on the side where the valve was installed. after loosening the screws that held the valve to the back panel I was able to reach in and pull it out of the side. Once that was done, the rest was a breeze. I clipped the hose on the original valve and re-attached it to the new part. Then it was just a matter of reassembling and that went much, much faster than the disassembling. I reattached the water lines, plugged in the washer and it worked like a charm. I was very pleased with the whole thing. Also, I paid for standard freight, but received the part the following day after placing the order. Sweet.

Opening the washing machine, and removal and replacement of the water inlet valve were both trivially easy. However, getting the cabinet back into place was a bit tricky, only because I did it by myself. It was surprising how flexible and flippy-floppy the cabinet became when free of the structure of the machine. It would have been a huge help to have had a buddy over to just help place the back corners of the cabinet into place. That would have made the whole job totally easy.

Loosing back cover to reach in and remove valve

I followed the instructional video that referenced the water inlet valve. The steps I followed were identical to the video I watched. That was extremely helpful. The hardest part was removing the terminal wires that connected to the inlet valve, the rest was very easy. With the new valve installed the washer works exactly as it did before. This site is very helpful, thank you!

As I tore my ACL, my wife actually did the actual repair while I talked her through it. The video on your website was such a great help. Our repair went exactly as depicted.

First I unplugged the washing machine and turned off the inlet water faucets. I prepared my tools, spead a drop cloth, and had ready a towel and small bucket to catch water from the hoses.
I pulled the washer away from the wall and removed the screw holding the ground wire. I disconnected the inlet hoses and the drain hose from the wall and put the loose ends in the washer tub. Then I completly turned the washer around for easy access. I removed the inlet hoses and the drain hose using the bucket to catch the little water that was still in the hoses. I removed 2 screws holding the top control panel to the back place and removed the 3 screws at the bottom of the back plate. I also removed the two screws holding the control panel to the top of the washer. The water inlet valve is located on the left side looking at the rear about half way up. I was able to move the left panel of the washer out of the way an inch or so, and pull the left side of the rear panel away a few inches so I could stick my hand in and unhook the cold and hot wire cables. I memorized which went into which slot. Then I unscrewed the water inlet valve and pulled it out the opening to the back and using a pair of pliers I loosed the water clamp and removed the rubber inlet hose. A small amount of water came out which I was able to catch in my small pail.
The water inlet valve comes with a separate mounting plate. I attached the mounting plate with one of the screws provided. The screws are identical except one has a flat slot and the other has a special star slot.
I reattached the rubber inlet hose using the pliers to hold the clamp then positioned the water inlet valve back in place on the back panel. I put a screw in to hold it and reattached the wires for the hot and cold control. Then I tightened the screws.

I repositioned the panels and put the lower screws holding the back panel to the washer back in loosely. I positioned the control panel back on the top of the washer and reattached the two screws on the back and then the two screws holding the front of the control panel to the top of the washer. Then I reattached the inlet hoses and draine hose.
I used this opportunity with the washer away from the wall to clean the floor and wall behind it. After cleaning under the washer, I moved the dryer over and cleaned under the dryer and made sure the dryer hose was still connected.
I put the dryer back, and repositioined the washer half way back into the opening. The I reattached the ground wire to the back of the dryer and attached the hoses to the wall. Then I pushed the washer back into place. Using a level I rechecked the level of the washer. I turned the water back on and ran a small load of wash to test. It worked fine.

i removed all screws for back of washer and removed top washer controls. then removed the valves and replaced with new one. reinstalled back in reverse order.really easy job. you just have to pay attention how you took it apart and study how it works , thanks!

With the help of reading about other individuals and their problem, I was able to replace the water inlet valve in less than 30 minutes. Unscrewed two screws on top to reveal the flat springs. Popped the springs and released the back of the washer. Removed the old part and replaced with new. A lot easier than I thought.

Take top of washing machine off. Turn spikets off and remove hot and cold inlet hoses. Remove one screw holding part in place. Reach from front and take valve out. Unplug wiring harnesses. Reinstall the same way I took it off.

To Whom It May Concern:

I had issues with my washer not flowing cold water very efficiently.
I was convinced I was going to have to spend at least $200 to get
someone to fix it or buy a new unit. My friend showed me your site
and videos. I quickly found the part I needed, had full confidence
that my problem would be solved with that part and that I'd be able to
do it myself. I ordered the part yesterday, got it today, and
installed it in under 15 minutes (thanks to the excellent video).
What an amazing customer experience!!

This is the greatest buying process I've every had with an Internet
purchase....hands down!! You saved me a couple hundred bucks and made
it fun and easy for me to fix myself. You guys are the best. No
doubt about it.

Thank you so much, Jason

I found the helpful video, after a bit of a struggle removing rear panel from machine!! I determined the problem of being the water inlet valve from prior troubles on a machine.
I removed the screws from bottom of rear panel,then the Phillips screws from the back of control panel. bumping the control panel towards the front of the machine dislodges it from it's slots. the control then tilts back on plastic hinges, exposing the clips that hold on the rear panel.Those clips are pried up and removed. dis connect the wire harness to control panel. A similar screw as the first removed at bottom hold the inlet valve on the panel.. two simple wire terminals are pulled off as well as a small water line. I did not remove the entire cabinet front as shown in the video as space did not permit it. Still easily reached. the reverse was done to install. The machines are heavy, do get help there.
I did not have it. Be certain to shut off water supply before beginning. Also, I forgot to reconnect the wire harness to control panel. you wont,RIGHT.

I'm a 61 year old single woman, rather handy around the house. I followed the video which was very helpful and everything went together fine until it came to putting the body of the machine back on. I did the repairs all myself which took about an hour but when it came to the machine body I couldn't get it back on there after numerous tries. I had to call my brother and it took him just one try but then he is 6'2" and could look down the little hole to see where the tab was to put it on and hold the body at the same time. BTW - he did inspect my work before finishing the job and said I "did good!" Thanks for the video but could have used some hints as to how to put the body on with some close ups as to what he was doing with his hands when he did it.