WFE525S0JS1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Yes... it exploded. Ordered the part which was delivered promptly. Installed in about 30 minutes with a helper. Just unscrew the 4 interior screws and a bunch of the screws (10 maybe?) on the back panel. Drop the back panel, remove the electrical connections from the broiler element and have your helper pull it out. Shove the new one in carefully through the insulation, attach the two electrical connections and reattach all the screws. Worked fine but smelled a bit as it burned off the new coating. About a 30 minute project.

Replaced the burner switch.

Replaced Infinite control switch in just a few minutes. Unfortunately the new switch had a lose terminal that was not supposed to be in the switch that came from the factory that way. I connected the switch, turned it on, and it instantly shorted the switch out. At that point the lose terminal was real easy to see.

Unplug range from 220VAC outlet. Remove screws on back of range control panel and lift cover exposing controllers and wiring. Remove burner controller mount screws. Measure old controller shaft length/new controller shaft length (per instructions). Adjust new burner controller shaft length. Remove wiring from old controller (one at a time) and place on new controller. Install new controller and secure with 2ea mount screws. Re-assemble cover/control panel. Plug range into 220VAC outlet. Have wife ops check....everyone's happy.

Took appro 8 screws out of back panel, 2 screws holding switch, and pulled out switch, unhooked wires and reinstalled wires on new switch. Had to snap off stem with needle nose pliers which is simple and put everything back in place in reverse order!

Easy change! Two screws in front and grounding strap screw-lifted out and turned stove top upside down on table. three more screws for burner element and then reinstall with first two screws and grounding strap screw.

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

turn the light on in the oven go to the breaker box and shut off power to the oven when light is out is good indicator remove two screws in back of oven that secure element to back then remove two screws on top inside the oven to almost finish removal. phillips head screwdriver and needle nose pliers and two small spring loaded clamps are all you will need to accomplish thismove the upper element side to side until the connectors are exposed in the back of the stove pull the two wires out about 4 inches should be enough place the spring loaded clamps on each wire so as to not allow them to slip back in the stove body. take the needle nose and while holding the clamp remove the connector from each wire once this is done place the new element in the stove and reconnect the clips on the end off the element move the wires and connectors back into the openings on the stove and replace the two screws replace the two upper screws check all screws for tightness go to the breaker box and turn on the power takes about thirty minutes

Unplugged unit, removed plate behind control panel, removed 5 or 6 wire connectors, pulled off burner switch knob and removed 2 screws that holds switch in place. Reversed the procedure and was done.

First, I turned off the power at the switch box. Moved the stove out (That was a problem, because I am 80 years young) Removed the back panel, and moved the wires one at a time to the new switch. Removed the selector, then removed the 2 screws holding the switch in. Installed the new switch installed the dial selector, turned the power back on, and checked the burner. It works as advertised!!!!! Moved the stove back to its original position, and got a hug from my wife. PHEW!!! Now I think I'll take a nap.

changing the part itself was easy, but the sheet metal covering the whole back of the oven was difficult to remove because of some screws that were stripped. The new sensor solved the problem.

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.

My first approach was to try to find some help on the internet - Y-Tube or whatever. When I could not find anything, I was on my own. My first thought was that the best and easiest access to the switch was to somehow remove the top section of the range which held the switch. I was trying to avoid having to pull the range from the wall and cabinets. But not finding any way to do that, I then pulled the range from the wall, and removed the back panel (8 screws), which gave me easy access. Once that was done, the replacement went smoothly and quickly. So if replacing any switches on this range, FIRST pull it from the wall and THEN remove the back panel, and the rest is a piece of cake!

i personally did not do the repair..one of my neighbors did it and he said it was super easy..he pulled stove out from wall, unplugged it from socket, removed defective part, shortened clip that knob attaches to, installed new part with no problems whatsoever...plugged stove back in, pushed it back in place...burner now works fine! i was super impressed with the delivery of this part...ordered it on a Monday nite, it was mailed out the next day (Tuesday), and i received it Wednesday around noontime.. :)

unplugged the range, removed the cooktop left & right front screws, unplugged left & right plug & unscrewed ground wire. Parts arrived fast & reassembled. . Happy, Happy, Happy! Happy Wife...Happy Life!