WED8800YC1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

I followed directions found on several similar YouTube videos since the instructions included in the Whirlpool parts kit were not for my model dryer. I found that the original idler pulley was not rotating and the belt had worn a groove through it. I replaced all 4 roller wheels, idler pulley and the belt. Problem solved.

I searched for a replacement by entering the model number and serial number of my Kenmore elite dryer. Ordering was extremely simple and it took less than a week to arrive. It fits perfectly.

Unplugged the Dryer first. Removed the two screws from the bottom panel using a 1/4 socket and removed the panel by pulling down and out. Reached behind the blower and removed the connectors from the old thermistor and then the thermistor itself by removing the two 1/4 inch hex head screws. Replaced with new part and after screwing back in, reconnected the wires and replaced the panel. From start to finish, it took me about 20 minutes.

Unplugged power cord. Removed rear panel screws and panel . Removed the two wires connected to part. Removed two screws holding part and replaced all components in reverse order.

First I was told by the maytag repair man that the motor was shot and it would be 467 dollars to repair. Since I didn't have that kind of money I decided to take it apart to see if I could replace the motor myself. Once I had it apart I saw the part that held the motor in place was broken off and the motor was out of place causing it too shut itself off. Once I figured it all out it took about 2 minutes to replace the less than 6 dollar part! Thanks partSelect!!!

(Always unplug dryer before making any repairs) I opened the dryer and checked the heating element. Making sure that the connection was good and nothing was damaged, I determined the problem was overheated wires. They melted and lots connection. I replaced them with the heating element wire connection kit. Easy to install and simple to get right. I cleaned the dryer again with a vaccum cleaner, removing all the lint, and checked the vents, making sure they were clear...I turned the breaker on (it was tripped when the dryer overheated)and everything worked great.

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

The repair cost us less than $9.00 and about 1 minute to repair. You can only imagine how much a tech would have charged us!! We are so very happy that we discovered this site . The instruction video they offered, the customer service via their website AND quick delivery of the part, has insured them that we will be repeat customers. Thanks so much !!!!! Bravo! Annie & Peter in , Nevada

I googled the problem and determined that the thermistor was faulty. I found your web site from which I ordered the replacement part. The part arrived within a week. The replacement was not particularly difficult, but the space was very tight (without removing more panels and covers). I just kept at it and got it installed and the dryer works fine now. There are several pertinent videos on you tube, none of which were my particular model, but the combination of them led me to a successful installation.

Had to force the old door catch out using the putty knife didn't work. Worked on it until I finally forced it out.

Took a screwdriver and bent wings out a little and then was able to get hold of it with a pair of pliers. Then just put the new unit in the opening and tapped it in. If I had a good pair of needle pliers, it would not have been necessary for the screwdriver.

Used screwdriver to remove old catch as shown via video from manufacture and snapped in new catch. Very easy to do and saved big bucks by doing myself.

Unplugged dryer, removed bottom front panel, removed fan cover. I used a 1/4 ratchet to remove 2 screws and the old fuse. Installed new fuse, fan cover, and front panel. Dryer works great!

I placed the putty knife on the top part of the door catch and when that came loose I placed the putty knife on the bottom of the door catch and pushed on the putty knife and the door catch came out of its place. I then just popped the new door catch in place. Total repair time 45 seconds. The door now closes.

I looked up the problem on Utube and saw a demo on what three items to check with a volt meter for continuity or resistence on either the start button, the door switch, or the thermal fuse. The first two checked out OK but the fuse was dead, no resistance or ohmns on the voltmeter. I had trouble locating it on my dryer as the Utube site said to pull the rear cabinet off when actually it was under the front panel below the dryer door sitting in an awkward position right on top of the dryer motor. I used 2 flat head screwdrivers to pry open the latches over the panel door that are located about 4 inches in from either end and then used a small right angle screwdriver with a flash light propped against the heating elements (after I removed the cover plate) to see with and to give me more room to loosen just two tiny screws that attached the fuse to the motor. Voila! It works better than before.