TFM30PBBBWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

rerfrigator side not cooling After determinating that the defrost timer was running I turned it to defrost and watched tosee if frost started to melt. When it didn't I checked the heater with ohmeter, checked OK, so the only other component in the defrost system is the thermostat. Then just a matter of cutting and splicing wires and snapping the new thermost in place

Performed self test.turned off ice maker switch four 5 minutes.Then turn on switch,within 10 seconds,pushed ice paddle 3 times,with 1 second in between each push.Push all the way back and release. Ice maker should cycle and squirt water. My ice maker did neither.I unplugged cord from fridge.So i replaced the ice maker.After a couple of screws had ice again !

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the panel to the ice/water dispenser. Removed the cover that displays ice type/water and light. Removed the 4 screws holding the cover. Unplugged the wiring harness to the cover which allowed easy access to the two electrical connections to the solenoid.
Removed the three bottem screws holding the solenoid in place. Loosened the top screw ( do not remove completely) and the solenoid slide down. Removed the solenoid arm that hangs on door latch.
Install hang solenoid arm on door latch; slide solenoid up under top screw. Install bottom 3 screws to hold solenoid in place then tighten top screw. Reattach electrical lines to solenoid then plug wiring harness back into cover. Install 4 screws holding panel in place. Re-install two remaining covers.

This was a very easy fix. I cut the water lines at the reservoir, coupled the old lines to the new lines with two plastic barbed fittings used for outdoor drip irrigation. All I had to do was pull the old lines out and the new lines followed. Easy as pie!

I replaced the control board and the solenoid. This was very simple and easy to do. Make sure the power is disconneted before starting. I then removed the accuator pad and holder. Removed the face plate by simply pulling on it. I then removed the four screws holding the control board unit. I unplugged the unite by pulling the block connector on the left side. I then marked on paper the connections to the solenoid and unplugged it. I removed the three screws holding the solenoid the removed it. When installing the new solenoid make certain the rod to the dispenser is put into the solenoid plunger. Then replace the three screws and plug the wires back in using the connections written down on paper. I then removed the two philips screws on the control unit hold down bracket in order to remove the controll board. After removing the screws and the hold down bracket, I pulled the old board out and put the new one in. I then reinstalled the unit, faceplate, and accuator pad. I then turned the power back on and tested it. Worked like new, saving a lot of money...

First disconnect power and turn off water supply.Removes the cover that indicates water and ice settings,removed 4 screws that held the switch assembly on,unplugged wiring harness (left solenoid wires connected.removed screw holding arm that closes door and removed assembly.Covered hole with duct tape ordered parts (which came very quickly turned water and power back on.When new parts came actuator arm was different on door put old one on door and reassembled in reverse order

Removed goods in fridge, removed shelf, unscrewed 2 screws, installed new drawer slide with 2 screws, replaced shelf, inserted drawer. Most of the time was moving the stuff in the refregerator. If the fridge was empty it would have taken me 2 minutes.

UNPLUGGED REFRIGERATOR..
removed top shelf in refrigerator..removed back plate covering controls..removed two screws holding control housing..removed two screws holding defrost timer..unplugged defrost timer and plugged new timer in..put all parts back in place with procedure reversed..

Remove the ice maker, motor and replace.

The biggest problem was that the part was NOT available from GE. Part Select had the part, it was easily identified on their website and it couldn't have been easier to order it.

The repair from GE would have cost me hundreds of dollars. Thanks Parts Select.

I removed all 3 drawers and then removed the 2 screws holding the left side rail that had a broken retainer notch.

Rescrewed new one in and re-installed the drawers. It was that easy.

Cut out cracked tubing between valve and where tubing enters into refrigerator. Cut new tubing to length and attach to existing using union.

you must pay careful attention when taking the dispenser apart,especially the long rod that controls the deflector,but if close attention is payed to disassembly you should have no problem.

very easy

Removed the one nut which holds the light shield in place, removed the old broken shield, secured the replacement shield with the single nut, and was finished in about 30 seconds. Easiest repair I'll ever make.

The problem is the common issue that the proximity of the plastic water lines that leave the electrically controlled valve near the compressor in the bottom back corner of the fridge, means they become brittle and crack/break. Both the line leaving to the ice-maker that runs diagonally across the outside back of the fridge, and the line that runs under the fridge to feed the water dispenser failed at the valve, breaking off just where they start at the valve.

The result was I noticed a big puddle coming out from under the fridge (too late for the poor wood floor).

The solution, replace the parts. For the ice maker line, it is one thin line - its easy to replace other than taking care to uncrimp and recrimp the connection up at the entry to the freezer.

For the thicker tube, the one that goes to the water dispenser, you replace the reservoir tank that sits inside the fridge. It has the two lines leaving it permanently attached to the tank, hence you replace the whole thing. There are separate lines and a splice/union that can be used to replace just the last 6 inches near the compressor, but I chose to replace the whole unit. This describes replacing that water chill tank unit.

The tank sits behind the bottom 2 drawers in the fridge.. you see it when you pull out the drawers. It has two lines permanently attached, one runs out of one hole in the bottom of the fridge and to the back of the fridge where it attaches to the exit on the electrical valve. The other runs out of the other hole in the bottom of the fridge and runs along the side, then along the front from the fridge to the freezer side. There is a union that connects that line to another line that then runs up the freezer door. Remove the front cover under the fridge to see this line and the union.

To replace the tank, you have to disconnect it from both ends, where its held in by plastic nuts/unions. Water remaining in the lines will drain out when you disconnect them. I unscrewed the valve assembly from the fridge body and then unplugged the plugs to the valves to do the work (but left the fridge plugged in).

To do this work, I needed to raise the fridge side edge of the appliance, since the hoses route along the underside of the fridge. After you disconnect the two ends (at the union on the freezer side bottom front egdge, and back side at the valve) you can pull the hoses up into the fridge. Routing the new hoses will require you have at least that one side off the floor to get your hands under it. I got two 6" tall 4x4 wood blocks and tipped the fridge slightly, raising the right (fridge) side off the ground and slid the blocks under the fridge rollers.

To remove the tank, before you raise the edge of the fridge, there are two screws that you need to remove (top side and left side) from the storage tank.

I recommend that in addition to removing the bottom two drawers, you remove all the bins hanging in the fridge door, since you need to work in there with gravity wanting to shut the door on you. Once you have the tank unscrewed (and the hose ends disconnected) note which hose(based on where it connects to the tank) goes to which hole in the bottom of the fridge. Pull up the hoses from the inside the fridge. The tank is free..go put it in the sink and drain the water out.

Installing the new tank, remove any hose end caps and route the hoses back through the lower drawer support frame you pulled them out of, and feed the correct hoses back through the holes in the bottom of the fridge. I found it better to feed the longer one first, which leads to the water dispenser/front. I could then pull that one up front from under the raised fridge and clip it in place and then route the other hose fully though its hole and route it to the back of the fridge to the valve. This way I ensured I was sending the right hose to the right destination.

You will likely have to trim the hoses once the tank is reattached as they are slightly long. Be sure