SCE30600B Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

We operated the oven without the display panel for three years and finally discided to get it repaired. The cost of the repair was going to be over 330.00. I went online to PartSelect and had the part in a few days. I removed the 4 front screws behind each of the knobs, next I removed the 4 screws and 4 hex bolts under the front panel. The two side panels needed to be removed by taking out the screw from under each panel. Remove the front control panel and release the ribbon cable by pressing in on the two side tabs allowing the locking connector to be rasie up relaseing the ribbon cable. The other two power cable can be gently removed. Two hex bolts hold the disply panel to the front panel. Installation is the reverse of the removal process. The process took less then 20 minutes. PartSelect customer service was very professional and I will use them again without a second thought.

took out the old dome cover and replaced it with a new one by unscrewing and replaced the new one and a fiberglass gasket. simple.

Ordered the part. when it arrived-quite speedily, I just unpacked it and put the cotton gasket around the glass and screwed it to the proper place in the oven. Very easy.

Isolated circuit by disconnecting cooktop breaker.
Disconnected blower duct, raised cooktop above the countertop to access screws holding the glass surface.
Blocked in place--no need to completely remove cooktop.
Removed screws around top of pan with 1/4-inch nut driver--only need to remove any screws close to top of pan and glass surface.
Lifted off glass surface.
Dual burner switch bracket needs to be removed to access switch and to disconnect wire harness connections.
Note there was one screw holding bottom of bracket which was hidden by the wire harness.
I was concerned with connections from other reviews; however, in my case, the switch and connections were identical to the original--no problem.
Reinstalled bracket and glass cooktop--need to remember flange location (inside versus outside) to assure easy alignment of screws. Drop cooktop back into countertop and reconnect blower duct.
Powered back up and dual burner now fully functional.

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.

Make sure you turn breaker off install both wires and screw the bracket into the back of the oven. You could use a phillips screw driver but with my ovens age seemed like it wanted to strip it out so I used a socket instead. Turn on the breaker and it works like new

My husband did the repair. He had difficulty removing the old element, probably because it had been in there for 20 years. Once he got the old element out, it took less than 30 minutes to install the new one.

The video indicating •unscrew old sensor, •pull wiring, •unplug old sensor, and •plug in replacement was good until I pulled the old one and saw wire nuts behind the small square hole! After some research, I learned that the nuts COULD come through that small hole with use of needle nose pliers. One of the wire nuts had the edges pinched off (chipped) in the process. Then I learned about ceramic wire nuts, which I'd never previously encountered. Very important if you don't want to melt your nuts! I cut and stripped the end of a disconnect plug to the stove wiring and now I have a plug in place; which, hopefully, I'll never need to use.

Followed the first persons instructions and they worked perfectly including using the jumper wire.

Raised the unit and blocked it with 2 boards. TURN OFF THE POWER IF YOU WANT TO COMPLETE THIS REPAIR. Removed the philip head screws for removal of glass top. Remove the corner screws on switch end. Remove screws holding the switch. Remove screws holing the bracket for all switches. Lift and roll gently to get at wiring. Follow the directions for moving wires from old switch to new switch. MOVING WIRES IS THE MOST IMPORTANT STEP. Reverse your procedure to put back together and when finished remember to turn on the power.

Turn off the electrical breaker before starting! Open the oven door & remove the 4 silver hex head screws under the bottom of the control panel with a 1/4 " nut driver. Pull out on the bottom of panel. This will access the clock assembly. Unplug the ribbon cable by pushing in & up on the small clips on each end of the connector - this is a little tricky but not that difficult. Remove the two small connectors and remove the two clock assembly mounting screws. Reverse the procedure for installation. This corrected the problem with the broil element not working - apparently the electronic clock assembly was the problem there as well.

There were only 4 screws to remove to take off the thingy that houses the electronics portion. Then, there was a ribbon connector and two push on connectors to unconnect. Unscrewed the 4 nuts holding the faulty Assembly in place, replaced with new Assembly, and reversed the process.

That easy. The only problem was making sure which of the parts we actually needed.

Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

it took me longer to get my portable screwdriver from my shop than to remove four screws from the panel and two screws from the clock assembly and to unplug and replug wiring , then reassemble the panel