RJDW2470A Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I pulled out the old rack, removed the spraying apparatus, attached it to the new rack and slid it into place.

I first removed the bottom access panel and 2 upper screws holding the dishwasher to the counter. Be sure to remove the standing water in the bottom tray. I pulled the chassis far enough forward to reach where the top shower hose attaches ( the supply line and wire had enough slack to move the chassis ). Not knowing how the rotating shower arm attached, I unscrewed the ribbed retaining ring above it, and found the whole assembly came loose - freeing the upper end of the shower hose. Put a shallow tray under the lower end of the shower hose to catch the remaining water and loosen the hose clamp to free the remaining end of the hose. Transfer the rubber washer at the top end and the hose clamp at the bottom, to the new hose and install. A quick repair, but one that shouldn't be needed on a 4 year old dishwasher.

I simply connected the two hoses to the valve plugged in the two wires and it was working!

I pulled the AC to the device, took the door apart , unscrewed the mounting to the door, unplugged the wires to it, plugged the wires on the new part, screwed it to the door, and finally put the door back together. Oh yeah, had to plug AC back in.

Although the (top) dishrack assembly included the nylon wheeles, it was easier to replace the old one by disengaging it from its wheels and installing the new rack on the old wheels kept in the slider track. The snap hook that held each wheel to the old rack was popped loose (finger pressure) and the old rack removed. The new rack was held in place and each of the four wheels snapped to it. Each wheel fits into a wire post on the basket and the plastic hook snaps onto the wire frame. The most difficult part of the 'repair' was removal of the handle from the old silver ware basket. I used screwdrivers to simultaneously pry the four tabs of the halde out of the slots on the basket and pulled (hard!) the handle off. It snapped easily into place on the new basket.

Tuned off electrical power to the dishwasher. Removed the screws on the cover inside the door. Unplugged the electrical connector to the timer. Removed screw that keeps timer in place. Replaced with new timer, replaced screw, plug and panel screws.

I first removed both lower front shields,(4 screws)
I then shut off water supply to inlet valve from hot water supply. I removed the water hose from inlet valve,two electrical terminals,( I put tape on right side terminal and lettered with an R as not to mix up the two terminals)removed the hose clamp,removed valve from frame.I reinstalled in reverse procedure.I turned the water back on and checked for leaks.I started the normal cycle and water flowed into the dishwasher as designed.

The rack assembly was not altogether assembled. Had to remove one part from the old one and reassemble on the new. Also, The racks that make place for a bowl instead of plates was not assembled.

Attaching the part to the door only took a few minutes but getting the dishwasher out over the hardwood floor that was installed after the appliance was put in was a pain. I had to remove a piece of the hardwood floor and use some technique to get it out of the opening so that the springs were visable. There is no problem after that. I would recommend using work gloves to stretch the spring over the retaining notch on the door so that you don't pinch your hand.

purchased disk rack was complete exept for the water diffuser in the middle of the rack. Merely pulled to old rack out with no tools, twisted out the diffuser and tweisted in to the new rack.

No tools or instructions required.

Initially I suspected something had found its way to the impeller or the macerator, began to disassemble top down. Upon removal of the discharge it was apparent the plastic disc at the top of the discharge was sheared off. Located the schematic at PartSelect and ordered the discharge. Received part within 3 business days and installed new discharge in about 30 minutes. Required 5/16 socket and hex head driver. Recommend ordering new gasket with part.

Turned off water at valve, removed float switch, removed water inlet vlv. Replaced and reassembled. Still not water going into the machine. I have no voltage to the valve or float switch. I then took the door apart to find there were burnt wires as well as a burn mark on the control panel. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the door seal has failed and water got into the door. Had to replace dishwasher with a new one.

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

I undid the four clips that attach the upper dish rack to the dishwasher. The upper arm simply unscrews from the top of the dishwasher. Unsnap clip that holds arm and remove arm. Installation is the reverse of removal.

I disconnected the dishwasher and started to take the impeller assembly apart but could not get it all apart. Went on line to start looking for the parts and came to Partselect and they had and exploded view of the the whole inside assembly and I saw what was wroung, some parts had broken and melted together. With this picture I was able to see what had happened and able to get it all apart. Ordered the bad parts, got them within a week (this was over the hoildays), took about 15 minutes to get the new parts in and the dishwasher running. It runs great now, very quiet, it's like a new dishwasher for $30.
P.S. I had to order some extra parts because one of my dogs was helping me and chew them up.