PGSS5PJXBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

I started out replacing a bad thermostat, no problem,
when I hooked up the water, I found that the water resovior had a leak.
I replaced the resovior, easy fix, but I had to buy two 5/16 brass couplers.
then I found that the box would not get below 10 degrees, and the suction pressure was very low.
I figured that the fan motor was burned out, so I opened up the access covers, the fan motor was hanging there with broken mounts, so I replaced the motor, and repaired the mount.
Everything works great now, The parts shiping was very fast, I was impressed.
I thought I was going to get away without fixing everyones
HVAC problems when I retired.
Friends and family still remember that you are the HVAC man.
Tom

I removed the top vent and unplugged the ice machine ,took the back cover off the freezer.Removed the old fan which was pretty easy(unplugged it after I took the housing out for easy access) I plugged the new fan in and put everything back in the order I took off, and yada yada yada we have cooling.

First, turn off main water valve. Then, at the rear of refrigerator remove the rear panel exposing the water valve assembly. Cautiously, proceed by disconnecting the water hose and electrical connections. To complete the task, just worked in the reverse steps to exchange the faulty equipment.

Unplugged fridge. Shut off the water supply valve under sink. Removed lower access panel at back of the refrigerator (six screws). Removed single green screw holding water valve bracket and pulled assembly out to access wiring and hoses. It is a dual valve as one valve is for the water dispenser and one is for the ice maker. Disconnected the 2 electrical connectors (one for each valve). Unscrewed the compression fitting for the water inlet with 1/2 " wrench. Then the two water lines on the outlet which are quick disconnects. You must push the ring towards the valve and then the tubing can be pulled out by hand.

Reattach everything to the new valve and install and its ready to use.

Turned water supply off; pressed dispenser sw to release presure ; cut tubing holding reservoir ; nuit driver to release screw holding reservoir and pulled out ; took outside and used hose nozzle to try to clear; did not clear at first then took weedeater string and disloged something and water flowed freely; turned out had to change waer solenoid valve (both) as the one for the water dispener was also plugged which did not show up before.
P.S. Had back flow water thru system before and changes of parts. Water flowed freely.

1 unplug fridge
2 turn off supply line for ice maker
2 remove lower back panel of fridge
3 disconnect in and out line from valve
4 remove valve (one screw.)
5 disconnect power line to valve.
reverse to reinstall. Very easy.

This valve is a cheap, poor design. This is the second one in 5 years. I replaced the first one because the line in the freezer would "drip" creating an ice dam so the ice maker wouldn't work. This time, the water dispenser on the front of the fridge has been dripping for months - finally the valve just dissolved and was spraying water all over the floor. It ran down into the basement. Keep a eye out if you have a GE fridge.

After turning the water off, I removed the silver covering located on the left side bottom. The valve was connected to the frame on the left side. I removed the defective valve and replaced it with the new one. Everything was color coded and the hoses were different sizes, making it impossible to screw up. It was over so fast I thought I made a mistake.

1. remove back shield of fridge.
2. unscrew old valve.
3. remove electrical connections.
4. remove white inserts on new valve.
5. cut feed hoses next to old valve.
6. place white inserts on hoses.
7 insert hoses into recepticals on new valve.
8 shut off water supply to fridge.
9. remove water suply line from old valve.
10. attach water supply line to new valve.
11. connect electrical connections.
12. bolt valve back on to fridge
13. turn on water supply to fridge
14. test both ice maker and water dispensor
15. replace back shield to fridge

I thought it must be the water valve leaking by so I ordered one and put it on myself which was a very easy job. It fixed my problem and everything works fine now. First I unplugged the refrigerator shut off water line block shutoff valve. Then I removed the back plate on refiigerator. Then I removed the water line from the water valve. After that I unplugged the two wiring harnesses. Then I removed the two plastic water lines from water valve. then I inbolted the water valve from refrigerator. Then I got new valve, plugged both water lines into it, plugged both wiring harnesses back into it, hooked main water line back up then turned water back on.

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP

WE (WIFE) took out the old parts an replaced with new one ..Be careful to get the placement of the Grommet or they "POP" out on you. fast ship on the parts too.

I followed the video for my model refrigerator on parts select. My hint: when returning the back panel of the freezer, it's slightly adjustable left and right to avoid grazing the fan.

Show installation!

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.