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PFS22SISBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the PFS22SISBSS
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Compressor Would not come on. Found the relay on the Main Board burned up. There was no electrical power to the compressor .
Ordered a new Main circuit Board. It arrived next day. Unplug the fridge to take away electrical power. Unscrewed the panel on the back of the fridge near the top. I then pulled the wire connectors off the circuit board. Gently pull the board off the plastic tabs. Push the new board onto the tabs. Reconnect the wire connectors. Screw the panel back on.
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • James from Akron, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful.
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Refrigerator ran too much, condensor fan not running
Removed cover plate on rear of unit - 3 screws

Removed connectors and ground wire

Removed board (use needle-nose pliers to compress plastic mountig posts)

Replaced board, inserted connectors, attached ground wire, put cover on

Everything worked properly
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • Dan from Ellicott City, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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No ice or water at the despenser. Compressor would turn off when the dispenser lever was pushed. There was also a loud buzzer sound for a couple of weeks prior to the board failing.
Pulled out the fridge and unplugged electric cord. Took off the back lower right side panel. Unplugged all the connectors and removed the motherboard. Replaced the motherboard and reconnected connectors. Replaced the panel and plugged it in. Works great!
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • Pat from Pensacola, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Cabinet very hot on sides, freezer not 0, running continuously.
Diagnosis of symptoms was condenser fan not running, due to faulty main board.

First: removed the cover over the main board, which was too hot to touch. Bad design flaw, no ventilation for the board, which I believe made it fail. We got another year of service with the cover removed.

Second: after reading people's experiences here, ordered the board and popped it in. (Note: needed a pliers to compress each of the 4 plastic studs holding the board in.) Works like a champ.

Third: did NOT replace the cover. At our altitude the air can't conduct enough heat to prevent cooking the board. Need to allow circulation.
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • Philip from Los Alamos, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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no cooling hrs display
I removed the board, unplugged all the sockets, took the new board, plugged in all the sockets, and replaced the new board into the refrigerator. I was to applaud this business. I was first able to diagnose the problem by finding this site, then one of the customers explained how to fix the problem ourselves. It save us at least $100. The $25 overnight shipping fee was well worth it. We could have lost $100's of dollars worth of food.
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • Debbie from Tujunga, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Refrigerator/Freezer Warm & Condenser Fan Not Running
The control board and access panel are on the back of the refrigerator, so you will need to roll/slide the refrigerator away from the wall to gain access to the panel. Be careful not kink the water line if you have an ice maker connection.
Unplug the power cord from power outlet on the wall.
On this model the control board is located behind a rectangular panel that is about 8" x 10". The panel is about 3 feet above the floor on the left side (as viewed looking at the back of the refrigerator).
Using a Phillips (cross point) screwdriver, remove the screws and the access panel cover. Look closely at the control circuit board and you will see 4 small white plastic protrusions sticking through the board -- these are the plastic posts that hold the board in place. There is a small tab that locks the board to the plastic mounting post. Use your needle nose pliers (or other small pliers) to compress the small tab on the post; and while squeezing, pull on the control board until it releases from the post/clip. Repeat this for each of the four posts and the board will now be free from the mounts.
Look at the plugs that connect the wires to the board and note the orientation of each plug. Each plug is a different size, so they will only fit into the socket of the correct size. On my refrigerator, there is one plug that is not connected to the board and is hanging loose, so don't get confused when connecting plugs to the new board - this one remains unconnected.
Firmly pull each plug from its socket on the board -- try not to pull by the wires. If you have a stubborn plug, grab it with your pliers and pull it out. There is a green ground wire connected by a screw into the refrigerator cabinet. Remove this screw and ground wire. (Note: on some models the green ground wire is fastened with a screw that holds the cover in place - just be sure to reconnect the wire when replacing the cover).
Insert all of the plugs into the new board -- be sure they are seated firmly. Reinstall the ground wire. Place the board over the plastic posts and push until the tab locks the board in place. Replace the cover.
On the sheet that comes with the refrigerator they instruct you to remove the lower panel on the refrigerator that covers the compressor motor compartment. They instruct you to look at the power cord connection to the compressor and to locate a green wire from a capacitor. If your power cord does not have a capacitor exactly like the one pictured, there is no need to proceed on this step. Replace the lower panel. If it does have a capacitor as illustrated, follow those instructions and then replace the panel.

Now plug in the power cord to the wall power outlet. Before pushing the refrigerator back into place you want to make sure it is operating properly. To make sure that there is no "Glitch" during start up, I suggest that you set the temperature control inside of the refrigerator to "OFF" and wait about 3 minutes. After 3 minutes, set the control to the desired temperature (about 37 Deg for Refrigerator and 0 Deg for the Freezer).
If the refrigerator is running, you are finished. Being careful not to kink the water line, push the refrigerator back into place.
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • H E from St Simons Island, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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My ice breaker started leaking and making noise anf the stripper broke.
I ended up needing to order a new ice maker because the one I had is discontinued. I'm a 65yr old grandma and I did it myself!!!! The hardest part was finding the tool to loosed the nuts. I took the old one out and just put the new one right in it's place. Easy as pie.
Parts Used:
Ice Maker
  • Marie from Elk Grove Village, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Ice maker didn't work.
Replaced icemaker assembly. Only 3 Phillips screws to remove the old assembly. Pretty much an exact swap. Was easy to replace but the connecting cable on the new replacement assembly wasn't very easy to make fit. Had to force it into a location that would be out of the way and allow everything to operate properly. That connecting cable should be more flexible and adapt to the fridge a little more friendly.
Parts Used:
Ice Maker
  • Amanda from New Albany, MS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Making an owl sound from the icemaker side
Simple; Removed the panel, unplugged the cable connections to the mother board with a rat nosed plier.
Then to remove board you must squeeze closed the 4 plastic retainer clips in each corner, or they can accidentally be pulled off with the board.
Removed the board, re-attached the new board on the clips, then the cable connectors, then the panel.
Plugged in the refrige and it has been silent ever since.
Follow the instructions and anyone can do it.
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • james from vista, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
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Refridgerator was not cooling
First, I removed the cover plate from behind the fridge. Next, I carefully pulled the main board out (four little clips holding it in) and disconnected the plug in wires. I connected the wires to the new board, popped it back in place and replaced the cover. Very easy to do.
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • Terry from The Villages, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
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Will not defrost
The replacement part went in quite easily and quickly. The instructions sent with the part was pretty self explanatory. I have also replaced the defroster element, the defrost thermostat and now the main control board. After having done all this the thing is still freezing up. After disassembling the whole freezer section I found yet another temperature sensor (Also known as Thermistor). I'll replace this part next and if it still freezes up you'll be able to find it sitting on the curb. Thrown enough money at this ten year old fridge and a new one will be in order. Thanks Parts Select for reasonably priced parts, the posts to help with the repair and the fast shipping.
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • James from El Dorado, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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icemaker stripper fall a part
instalation was very easy - but the part was 3/4 inch to long and a 1/32 inch to wide.Trimmed it with the "faithfull"
Dremel and it works!The instalation part of the "job" was less then 10 min.
Parts Used:
Ice Maker
  • Ted from Harrisonburg, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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The fridge was making a clicking sound, and not cooling the food
The back panel was unscrewed, we read the directions with the circuit board and followed them. It was very easy to unplug the old faulty unit and plug in the new replacement part. It was done in 4 minutes flat. Very easy to do yourselves!
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • Sharon from West Winfield, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Not cooling, Defrost issues, whining loud noises
Unbolted the back cover, pulled out old board, replaced with new bored and powered back on. It is working great now.
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • William from Wylie, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Ghostly Sounds From Fan Motor - Variable Speeds All Night - Motherboard Problem
Simple directions were provided. It took more to clean and vaccuum than the actual repair. Yes I replaced the motherboard in a referigerator. Just keep not of the connectors and were they came off from on the original board. Dont just rip them off because the new board has some different connections. So follow the directions and take your time if your not sure. But really it a cinch. No more whoooo sheeesh and howling noises from the referigerator. Thank goodness.
Parts Used:
Main Electronic Control Board
  • Glenn from PORT JEFFERSON, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the PFS22SISBSS
91 - 105 of 432