PDW8800LB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Squeeze the new link to the cable hook with pliers while locking the vise grip to the cable for easier handling. Then, using the vise grip on the cable, hook the other end of the link to the dishwasher door hook

The installation video that is on the website with the part is very helpful & easy to follow. The wires that attach to the heating element & the nuts that hold it in place are actually located a few inches off the ground so I didn't need to tip the machine over to pull them out & unscrew the nuts. All I had to do was unscrew the screws that hold the dishwasher in place under the counter next to the sink, pull it out & was able to reach the wires underneath it.
The actual repair took me less than 30 minutes, I marked it as 30-60 because during the somehow the water line going to the dishwasher had come loose from under the sink (not at the dishwasher) & because of this I had to stop midway to deal with some loose water & tighten things back up. I would recommend following the video, there really isn't much more to add that would be helpful.

Per ps video. Really easy. Disconnect power, Remove front lower panel, remove Power leads, 2 installation bolts, remove 2 spring clamps on feed/exit hoses,reinstall.

Called repairman: announced that the drain pump was gone. Did not seem right. Went to the website. Found what I was looking for. 49% of the time it was a check-valve issue; only 26% of the time was the pump the problem. Took the unit from under the counter; got it on its side; removed the drain pump. Found my first check-valve, but thediagram showed a second lower one toward the sump. Having located both and purchased two valves and and the lower holder piece, I was ready to finish the job. Quarter-inch nut driver and a screw driver and the valves were in and the drain pump re-installed. Most difficult in my case was getting the dw back into its spot and lashed down! Thanks for the good guidance!

replaced clips that were much better made.

The repair was quite easy.
You simply take the new rollers and attach the pins to each of the rollers purchased. I gladly remove the old roller units. I placed each of the new rollers onto each pin of the lower rack unit, and snap them into place.
The rack rolls with ease now thankfully!

After removing the screws, the front of the dishwasher easily came off. I put 2 screws back in to hold the control panel in place. I did not want that to dangle while replacing the part. The part came off easily after removing the screws. Everything went together easy.

The repair was easy. Removed all the screws from the inside door panel, approx. 11. Watch out for that last screw as there isn't anything else holding the outside panel, inside panel and control panel together other than those screws. I then unplugged the old dispenser backed out another 6 screws and replaced the old dispenser with the new one. Put it all back together within about a half hour.

took off eight philips screws on inside door panel which then exposed the broken actuator and missing spring. Replaced broken and lost parts and reset actuator in door then reinstalled inside door panel. Done and I'm happy not to have called service.
Joe

Simple replacement. Also note lower rack comes with all wheels attached

Easiest repair ever. My new rack arrived in three days, opened the box and slid it in. Better quality than the original. Excellent service!

parts were easy to find and the repair was a breeze. Thanks for your help.

went online to parts select. Looked at parts that could be leaking. Thought it was the sump. Purchased the sump and the pump connector. Almost bought the adaptor pump assembly, but it was $29.00. Parts arrived in about 2 days. Turned off water and power to dishwasher. Disconnected the copper water line. Hardest part was getting the dishwasher out of space. Once out, layed it on it's side. Parts held together with clamps. Took it apart like a puzzle. Replaced the parts, tightened the clamps. Pump connector hard to unscrew. Got a good hand grip on it and turned it loose. Sump did have a hole in it. Put everything back together. water, electric, etc. Turned it on and it was leaking. Leak coming from the adaptor pump assembly. Couldn't wait 2 more days.Found part at a local parts store for $40.00. Was able to change it by reaching underneath and not pulling dishwasher out again. All three parts needed to be changed. Dishwasher now working fine. If your leaking underneath and taking out the dishwasher change those 3 parts.

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

The repair is just a couple of minutes job. All I had to do was to pop the wheel axle in the new wheels, remove the old wheels and put the new ones in. The wheel axles on the original one, were like clasps. All one needs to do is to pull the clasp to one side and slide the wheel out. The new one, just needs to be pushed in. In my case, I could have just swapped out the axles, but decided to change the whole set anyway.