MZD2768GEW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed

Removed frozen foods and ice container to get to enclosure. Removed single screw with 1/4" nut driver. Disconnected wiring harness from behind housing after lifting up and out a bit. Removed components from back of old housing, reinstalled in new. Tapped prong loose from motor shaft to pull in though piece of old broken housing.(reverse threaded) Screwed back into place and replaced motor in proper location. Reinserted housing, replugged wiring harness, replaced 1/4" screw to secure. Placed ice tray back in line with prong and frozen food (still frozen)back in shelves. Quick, easy and auto ice in the door again! And for less than 80 bucks. Is this a great country or what?

I removed the plastic housing inside the top of the rerigerator. Next I removed one hex head screw on the right side that screwed into the back wall using a 1/4 inch nut driver and I removed four hex head screws that screwed up through the temperature control unit into the top. There were two phillips head screws that had to be loosened, but not removed, that also scewed up through the assembly. After the hex head screws were removed, the whole assembly pulls out about an inch then drops down. Once it's down you can remove the adaptive defrost circuit board in the right rear corner of the unit. It's fixed! Thanks

Received the union I ordered, then discovered that the tubes were different sizes, so I had the wrong part. I had read elsewhere that it was necessary to trim the two ends of the tubes with a box cutter to stop the leaks - I did this, and the leaking stopped. I was then able to go to a local hardware store and get a 5/16 to 1/4 union and replace it. The leaking is stopped, and the water supply in the door is now working like new. No problem with partselect, but I did buy a caliper so that I can check tube diameters if I ever have a similar problem! This is a great site to find instructions - well worth the time to search!

Had to disassemble ice maker to install part. . .

I removed the water filter located in the refrigerator and replaced it with the bypass plug. The ice cubes and the water dispenser work properly . I am pleased with the outcome especially the price was only $15 and less than 5 minutes of my time. Maytag recommends replacing the water filter every six months at $40 a filter. One can see how this will add up in time. Eventually I am installing an after market water filter in line prior to the refrigerator.

My husband first replaced the Defrost heater and the fridge still didn't stay cold. We had to defrost the freezer once a week and the fridge would stay cold for a few days, but after we replaced the Thermostat Assembly it worked GREAT! Thank you all for your comments and suggestions it saved us hundreds of dollars having to replace an, otherwise, perfectly fine fridge. Good luck to you if you have this problem, it was sooo fast and easy to replace these parts and totally worth the money.

Part selects cataglog for parts selection was very easy to use and the online service and delivery was great.
When I got the part, it was not apparent on how to remove the auger so that I could insert the new connector. There were about about 8 visible screws, with star drive heads that I fortunately had a screwdriver that fit, and I could not tell if I had to remove all of them or only a couple.
I ended up removing all, but still could not separate the dispenser portion which held the front of the auger from the back of the ice bin. I finally figured out that the dispenser door trip lever had to be disconnected and I almost lost it when I removed the metal clip that attached it to the outside of the ice bin when the spring loaded lever tried to unwind. I managed to hold it in place, separate the dispenser holding the auger from the rest of the ice bin and replace the connector. I them got the pieces back in place and was able to refasten the spring loaded lever and then replace the screws.
If the spring loaded lever had unloaded, it would have been tricky to try to replicate the amount of turns (load) on the spring tension.

First I rolled the fridge out and unplugged the power cord. I then removed the ice bin. There was one screw to the left under the ice bin rack holding it in. After removing that screw, I could pull the rack out far enough to disconnect the electrical connector. You have to squeeze the wings b-4 you can pull the connector loose. I put the rack on the countertop, removed two screws and the solenoid with plunger came out. I replaced the old solenoid, put everything back together, and realized I probably just saved myself $300. My Wife thinks I'm a Hero again. It works fine now.

1 Remove the two screws at the bottom of the Ice Dispenser faceplate.
2 Carefully remove Faceplate and remove the wire connector on the back side.
3 Remove the three screw holding in the Ice and water dispenser.
4 Disconnect the wire harness going to the dispenser.
5 Remove the Actuator Pad.
6 Unscrew the Limit Switch.
7 There are two wire connectors to be removed. As you remove one place it on the new Switch. Repeat for the other wire.
8 Install the new Limit Switch with the screw that was removed
9 Install the new Actuator Pad.
10 Reconnect the wiring harness to the dispenser.
11 Place the dispenser assembly back in place and reinsert the screws.
12 Carefully reconnect wire harness to the back of the faceplate.
13 Reattach Faceplate to the refrigerator.
14 Install new Dispenser Grill

It was easy breezy!! I felt like an empowered woman that I did it myself. I simply removed the old shelf supports with a screwdrive and inserted a screw thru the new supports and screwed them in.

Unscrewed old filter and screwed in new filter.

1/4 turn of old filter. it popped out. Inserted new filter, 1/4 turn and it clicked in. Piece of cake. I'm a freakin' genius.

the main water valve was leaking causing the water under the frig. But the double out let valve was not holding causing a ice build up in the ice bin. The repair was not complicate you take back cover off turn off water. use the nut driver to unbolt the valves from the frig with frig unplugged use screw driver to remove the power plugs from valve. use flare nut wrenches to remove main water line.push on plastic retainer rings to remove plastic tubing. remove valves from bracket and then reinstall in reverse order.

googled for answer, deduced relay/switch problem. googled again for parts, found partselect.com, ordered part. 2 days later & $70 lighter, my 8yr old Maytag was working again! Parts were good fit, instructions were decent enough. Not for inexperienced tinkerer though.