MSD2422GRW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

I took off the backing off the back of the refrig. & the water valve with a nutdriver. Then unpluged two wire connectors & disconnect three water lines. Pulled out the old valve & hooked-up the new valve in reverse order. It don't get any easer than that. The dripping water dispencer was no more.

Needed special "Torques" tool to remove front panel from refrigerator door not a problem, however, some folks may not have this type of tool. Replaced rubber actuator pad and DID NOT replace limit switch. Old pad was worn out & wouldn't reset. Replaced water outlet valve this fixed the water flow to the ice maker. Had to guess if this was the problem. I guessed right as the water flow to the door water point was working but the ice maker water flow was not. I also used a special tube cutter (I had one) to cut the water tubes to get a clean cut. Most of the time was spent on vacuuming the underside of the frig. Bottom line the ice maker works again!

Replaced filter with by-pass plug. For some reason though, ice maker does no longer functions, although there is flow out of the cold water tap. Is the design of the bypass plug such that, when installed, it impedes flow to the ice-maker?

Thanks

First of all I want to thank Michael from Carlisle,PA and this site for publishing Michael's info on the wiring specifics on the new 3 connector Start Relay ( WP2262185 ). The original relay only has 2 connectors The 2 orange wires which are combined to one female connector need to be clipped and separated each to its own connector. Refer to Michael's blog as to which wire goes to which connector on the Start Relay. I replaced the Run Capacitor, Start Relay and Overload just to be safe. The Start Relay was the actual culprit.Thank you for an excellent website!

change light bulbs

replaced water valve, Still not working.

Instructions were great five minutes to remove and replace fan....Thank You............ saved big money

Viewed the repair video. Removed covering. Replaced limit switch, control board, and solenoid. Very easy repair!

First turned off the water and unplugged the refrigerator and then removed the old ice maker by first removing the side cover plate and then next removed the ice level detector. Remove the screws that hold the ice maker in place and rotating it somewhat soas to gain access to the wires and then unplugged them. Next I had to modify the way the water comes into the new icemaker by adapting a CPVC street ell to fit into the hole on the side and then hook up the water supply. Installation is just the reverse of removal.

I was told to order the run capacitor and the technician thought it would repair the refrigerator; but it did not. The appliance technician had to take the run capacitor off and install what he called a "hard start" and the refrigerator is operating right now.

removed back cover, removed fan motor and replaced with new one. connected new power wires. worked right away

I watched your online video on how to take out the old filter, and then to replace it with the new filter. It was as easy as on the video. Thanks!

removed three nuts from the top of the door diconected the electrical connections for the ice and water in the door. Removed door by lifting it up about 2 inches, set it aside put new hinge pieces in placed put everything back together. writing this took more time. wanted to add, bought at 2 pm on thursday was at my house by 10am the next day

Take off cover plate. two screws. Take out three screws holding the bracket. Exchange the parts from old bracket to the new bracket. reinstall the bracket and cover.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.