MGS5770ADW Maytag Range - Instructions

The bottom burner would not stay lit. I determined that it was as a result of the ignitor's voltage droping. The thing still glowed red but apparently the voltage drops and closes the gas valve. So, I switched the broiler one with the bottom one to see if it would work. It did. Then I bought the new ignitor and put it in where I had taken the broiler ignitor out. You have to take care to put the insulation back and shove the connector well into the hole so that there is no possibllity of it melting. I also replaced the oven top. I had bought that part a couple of years ago because I had dropped some things on it and it was chipped. When I got the top I thought it would be somewhat intuitive as to how to replace it. But, it wasn't. So,it stayed in its box. When I had the other problem I decided to tackle the top too. First turn off the gas and unplug the oven. You have to pry the top off with a screw driver. Then, you disconnect wires which run to the ignitor for each burner. You also have to disconnect the gas lines running to each dial. Now, you take the top off. To get the burners off the top you have to take a pair of channel locks and open them wide, wrap a rag around the burner and turn them like screws. Under the top there is an assembly that holds the gas lines in place. that has to be removed from under each buner. These assemblies are not interchangeable!!! One is left and the other is right. You then reverse everything. Put the burners in by screwing them down. Its hard but if you put a rag over them you can strike them with a rubber mallet. Screw the gas line assemblies into the bottom of the top. Then hook up the wires and then the gas lines. Then, you pop the top back in. There are those pressure clamps that hold the top down. I made a mistake with the gas line assemblies and switched them. So, when I tested the repair I realized I had the front dial controlling the rear burners and vice versa. Some day I take it all apart and fix it again!

I realized where the ignitor was and I turned off the circuit breaker took the v plate off with a little tie nut unscrewed the 2 small nuts and small plate to hold wires in and pulled the pig tail wire out and unplugged it and then took new one and installed it in reverse order done in 7 minutes thanks michael

I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its corresponding hole.

Look in the oven. On the upper left corner is the sensor. Remove two screws. Gently pull the wire and connector through the hole and insulation. Disconnect old sensor, replace new. Gently push the connection through, then finish pulling through from behind the stove. Replace the screws inside the oven. Done.

Replaced spark module but same problem persisted. Realized that the insulation on the spark ignitors were all cracked, causing a short.

Lesson learned: check the condition of the spark ignitors first as these have a tendency to crack. Even the smallest crack will cause a short.

Ordered new spark ignitors and plan to complete repair.

A quarter turn counter-clockewise and the burner came out. Disconnect the old wires and connect the new wires. Place the burner in its place and a quarter turn clockwise and it was set.

I learned that I could clean the window in the oven door. In taking it apart I saw that the gasket had fallen into the oven door. I found the part online, it arrived in three days. I removed the metal part of the door, removed what was left of the old gasket and put in the new one. Put the metal part of the door back on, and it was as good as new.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

I removed the door by opening partially and pulling upward. It was a little heavy and you should make sure you have somewhere to put it. I removed screws and reinstalled the handle into the new door trim that had broken. It gave a great opportunity to clean the oven.
I then unscrewed the temp sensor from inside the oven and removed the back panel of the range to unplug the wires. I plugged in the new wires and tightened the screws.
The light bulb was easy. I pulled off the cover and unscrewed the old and screwed in the new. It was a lot of screwing and unscrewing but 3 easy tasks all the same.

I had to unscrew 4 screws on the burner unit and then 2 screws on each igniter. slip the olds out and the new ones in and then replace all the screws. And wa la they sparked and I was cooking again.

My wife called a service company and was told that a tech would have to inspect the stove.
service charge 60.00 After inspection the parts would be orderd and a 200 fee for labor plus the parts would be charged at the completeion of the job. 2 weeks for part. I found you on the net orderd the glass. got it in 2 days and I completed the repair in 20 mins. Cost 89.00

. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) pushed wires back in and secured sensor

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then conected the new element and replaced te two screws. Turned on the oven & works fine.
Very Easy!

It wasn't the handle that was broken, it was what the handle was attached to that was. I removed the door by opening to first detent and just lifting the door upward. Once off, I removed the screws on the top sides and underneath - a total of 9. This allowed me to remove the edging on the sides and underneath - the front glass came with it as well. Then I removed the Top trim by removing a screw on each of the sides and two on the front - this was the piece that was broken. Since I had already disassembled most of the door, I went ahead and dismatled the rest so that I could clean everything. The pieces that would fit went into the dishwaser and the rest (including the glass) I washed by hand (except the white insulation pieces of course). I did take apart the double glass panel by lifting up on a bent tab on one of the corners - this allowed me to clean the insides as well as the groves in which the glass sat. After everything was clean, I reassembled everything in the reverse order substituting the new trim for the old.

Notes: The top of the trim piece has two diferent screws - two short ones that screws into the trim piece itself and two that go through to the door metal. The screw that I ordered ended up being one of the short ones and I wanted the other. The snap nut was correct, and was what the longer screw to the trim actually grabs on to. I ended up using one of my own screws that fit like a dream, but wasn't painted white. The other note is that the sheet metal that the trim piece screws into from the front was slightly stripped. All I had to do was to place the metal on a hard surface and hit the holes with a hammer to bring them back into a usable form - not ideal, but worked nonetheless.

Turned the circuit breaker to "off"
Unbolted the unit from its cabinet (4 screws - visible when the oven doors are open - secured the unit in its cabinet)
Slid the unit out of the wall about 2 inches
Removed the control panel.
Unbolted the cooling fan assembly
Unplugged the assembly from the wiring harness
Removed the cooling fan from the oven

Plugged in the new cooling fan
Bolted the new fan in place
Replaced the control panel
Slid the unit back into position
Bolted the unit in place
Turned the circuit breaker back on
Tested

No problems - the hardest part was having to reach to the back of the oven from the front.