MGR5775QDW1 Maytag Range - Instructions

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

Considered calling a repair facility, after reading your tips and what parts should fix what problem I decided to fix myself. Moved oven out,slide in gas range. Took off probe and tested with volt ohm meter, read 1090 ohms, should have been good. I could see oven igniter glow red, but I decided to replace both units, glad I did. Oven go's from 100' to 350' in 8 minutes now, for less than $85.00 have a fully functioning oven now. I'm sure the repair would have exceeded $300.00 or more being we live in a rural area. Thanks for the tips from your experts as well as you customers.

Took the bottom out of oven then removed and replaced with the new part. VERY EASY! I'm a 70-year-old woman and do quite a few home repairs myself.

First I changed the temperature sensor and when it didn’t get hot I Also changed the igniter. Fired right up.

Removed 3 Phillips head screws at top of oven door. Tipped this top casing back just enough to remove glass door panel. Removed door mounting brackets from door (phillips). Removed end of handle from attached end of frame piece. New handle screw stubs changed from original to need self tapping screws (with washers), so had to find appropriate screws on my own (screws sent to me for new handle were straight machine screws as needed with original, broken handle). Found self tapping screws and washers, screwed new handle to brackets, screwed brackets to door panel, loosely screwed 3 top frame screws, tipped top frame back enough to reinstall glass door front, screwed down 3 top frame screws and it was done.

1. Remove the oven door by opening a few inches and lifting straight up. Remove racks to access it. 2. The old igniter is just held in by two nuts that have a screw head in the middle of them so they could be removed by a nut driver or by a screwdriver. Unfortunately, both of our screws threads were terribly stripped and after first trying to use pliers to help remove them, we ended up using a dremel tool to cut them off. 3. unplug the old igniter and take it out. 4. Plug in the new igniter. 5. attach the two screws. (our time on the repair was mostly spent trying to find two screws around our house that would replace the two that were stripped--otherwise this would have been 15 minutes). 6. return the door and racks by the sliding the door downwards onto the hinges

1. Turn power off and loosen and remove screws. Pull out sensor from mounting hole and expose wire connector. Remove old sensor. Select appropriate wire adaptor and reconnect the sensor. Carefully push connector through hole and secure with screws removed previously. Turn power back on and cycle oven to make sure oven operates properly. If you have an oven thermometer it can be used to compare set point of oven to thermometer to make sure readings are the same. All done! Happy wife can now bake cookies again and now I can go back to man cave for other projects!

I ordered a new igniter and when it arrived, i removed the door from the oven. It just lift's off. I had to removed two screws from the bottom plate to gain access to the igniter. Remove the two screws from the igniter and unplug it from the back of the lower back of the stove. Place the new igniter where the old one was and plug it in. Put new screws in and tighten them down. Put the bottom plate back in its place with screws tightened. Put oven door back on and turn on the oven. That's all there is to it. Your done.

Removed door and bottom oven pan to expose igniter. It was held in place by two sheet metal screws. Tried to back them out but due to heat damage , they stripped. I used my versa tool with a metal blade to cut the screws. I removed the old igniter and disconnected the plug, after I guided it out from the insulation. I installed the new igniter with two new self tapping screws after I connected the plug and guided it back through the insulation. Reinstalled the oven pan and door. I set the oven to 350° and the new igniter worked. Wife is happy and I saved the repairman fees.

replaced heat sensor

I searched on-line to find that PartSelect had the easiest site to navigate and find the correct replacement knob for our 6 year old appliance. I placed the order and 36 hours later the part was in my mailbox. It fit the range perfectly and matched the other knobs exactly! Although the shipping cost was high for such a small and lightweight part, I was glad to have found the piece I was looking for. Thank you for this service!

First I removed the oven racks, then the bottom cover over the burner. I then unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter on to the bracket on the burner tube. I then removed the storage drawer and loosened the two screws holding the metal shield in place. I then unclipped the electrical connection to the ignitor and pushed it up past the insulation. I then went back into the oven and pulled the wires and connector through. The old igniter was out!

Installation of the new one was just as easy. Screwed the new igniter onto the backet, stuck the electrical connector through the hole in the back of the burner tube, and connected it. I then replaced the shield and the storage drawer, replaced the bottom pan over the burner tube and the racks. The stove works perfectly and my wife is happy. The job couldn't be easier.

Found serial # as advised on web site. Found parts listing & ordered part. Got it in less than a week .
Unfastened two screws on top of door. Inserted glass. Applied a little mastic to prevent it from coming out again.
Done & done.
Do I get a prize ?

removed inside bottom of oven, removed 2 screws that held the ignighter, pulled out the oven, removed one screw on small cover, unpluged old ignighter, removed old ignighter, pusned the wires through the back of the oven, plugged ity in, attached the nerw ignighter, and replaced the cover/ and the bottom of the oven.
i teted the oven before i closed everything to insure it would light.

I expected to see a thermocouple and a heating element next to the gas valve but after reviewing other PartSelect stories from people with a similar problem I realized that the heating element also serves as the switch. Apparently as the heating element is energized by the oven control it draws more amps. The gas valve is allowed to open at a specific level corresponding to a sufficiently glowing heating element. I ordered a new heating element. The part received was made up of two pieces. The heating element and the metal mounting bracket. The element was identical but assumingly due to the age of my stove the bracket was slightly different. Fortunatly I was able to slide the new element into the old bracket. The only other obsticle was that the new element came with a two conductor connector and the old was installed with ceramic wire nuts. The connector was cut off and the ceramic wire nuts were reused. Its working fine.