MFB2055DRM01 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Don not completely remove holding icemaker screws. Unit slips over screws and drops down into place and the use nutdriver to tighten in place. Rest of unit was sound and wasn’t replaced.
After icemaker is installed wait for a while and unit self activated and creates ice cubes.

Just plugged it in

Took the part out of the box and placed it where it goes. 2 seconds.

Installed ice machine components using kit and included instructions. Easy! Ran a copper line from under sink valve to back of refrigerator under the floor. Drilled two holes to run copper line. Plumber turned water off and replaced single valve with a double valve (one line to faucet and the other for the copper line). Installed shut off valve and filter at the other end of copper line. Then stainless hose to refrigerator. Everything went smooth. Double check the factory installed plastic line from the electric valve to the inlet for your freezer. Mine was barely inserted and leaked. I pushed it in all the way and it is fine now... Ice maker works really well! Wish I had done this sooner!

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

I watched the video that was included with my on line order, it was helpful, although different model shown . I would say it was not difficult to install, the enclosed instructions were a bit confusing.

We removed the old switch, unplugged it, plugged the new one in and it was easy to do. But when we tried to put the switch back in we had a very hard time doing it. Eventually got it in, but if it had not been for the difficulty we had getting the new switch to snap in to place, it would have taken under 5 minutes.

Once I figured it out. It was very easy. May not be right, don't know, but it works

Followed online instructions. UnPlug and Plug in new part

Lower the filter cover on the refrigerator, twist the old filter to remove it, install the new filter by pushing and twisting it, and close the filter door.
Using a pitcher, run water through the new filter until the excess carbon leavings are out then the water is clear and is drinkable

Just open the filter and put it in the slot

That 1 Phillips screw out push up disconnect electrical plug put new one in by going in the opposite way.