MEW5530DDB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

ordered new broiler pan

Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!

Took the door apart and replaced the hinge, very easy

Got a bent metal coathook to temporarily release the oven door, removed the screws from the old probe, inserted the new one, and hooked it up, using the one of the plug adapters provided. Problem solved! The oven door latch was now disengaged, the oven would now accept temperature inputs, and the rear cooling fan (which wouldn't shut off) now turned off. That's a lot of things working better for less than $50!

I ordered a new touch pad from PartSelect, pulled the wall oven out so that I could access the nuts that held the panel on. I cut off the electrical power to the unit, removed the panel, unplugged all the electrical plugs and the two "plastic" strips that program the circuit board. I then removed the metal stabilizing plate that was behind the circuit board, screwed the stablizing panel to the new control panel and screwed the circuit board to this metal plate. Then I reattached all the plugs and inserted the two "plastic" programming strips into their slots and screwed the entire panel back onto the front of the unit. When I turned the power supply back on, my stove worked like it was brand new again! It was sooooooo easy and saved a BUNDLE of money by not having to call in a repair technician. THANKS PARTSELECT!!!!!

removed the door, removed the bottom, removed the glass. The handle bracket it attached to the door but though the vented part. After removing the old handle just had to put it all together again, Not hare just a lot to take a apart.

I unscrewed the door's top edge, removed the bottom drawer to loosen the oven door's bottom edge to where its screws were hanging in by a thread. The outside glass was then removable and exposed the screws holding the door handle mounting pieces. I unscrewed the four screws that held the mounts to the door, then the two that held the handle to the mounts, replaced the broken handle with my promptly delivered new one and reassembled the door in reverse order of above. Oh yeah, reading the other accounts of how to do this was the most important step in all this.

Removed top rail, removed front glass panel,Removed door handle brackets, removed door handle from bracket,attached new handle to brackets, attached brackets to door frame, slid front glass into place and reattached top rail. It was a great time to clean the glass.Good Luck

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Watched the video and things went exactly as planned. Love this website will use them again when I need a repair.

I had repair men replace the door hinges 2times and decided the 3rd time to do it myself and save some $. ordering was a chinch, received the parts in 2 days and followed instructions posted on this site. They were excellent. Just a few things I would stress: Lift UP the door to remove, not open the door fully and pull out and also make sure to take the small pins out of the new hinges before closing. They are so small you could over look them. The person who put detailed instructions on this site is to be commended for clarity and detail on "How To" I really appreciated it.

removed 2 screws in probe and pulled it out.had to take back off as wire was tangled from factory and couldn't do quick repair

The oven did not auto clean. Problem was the sensor stopped working. Tried to repair from the front but could not get the connector through the hole. Removed the rear panel and found the connector had melted. Could not find a new wireing harnes on line, so I cut the wires on the stove and the new sensor coupling. Spliced the wires togather. The oven cooks fine, I have not tried the cleaning cycle yet.