MDB6769PAB4 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.

After several weeks of decreasingly clean dishes on the top rack of our dishwasher, I did some digging & found that my chopper assembly was broken (the washer had come off & the parts were loose). I ordered a new chopper assembly here. Once I received it, the entire repair took less than 30 minutes. I removed the old chopper assembly, used a shop vac to remove the excess water & food particles, then reinstalled the new chopper assembly using the instructional video provided. The dishwasher is back up & running like brand new. The top rack is getting cleaned thoroughly once again. PartSelect made the process extremely easy & affordable!

removed the upper and lower baskets, removed the lower wash arm by rotating the center bearing assembly (its the flat piece in the very center of the lower wash arm) by the way it has a reverse thread...not righty tighty and lefty loosey... it is reverse the normal rotation.. i unlocked the upper arm assembly from it's clip on to mount as well as the clip on to mount on the back wall, looking at the very center pump cover strainer, you will see that the assembly that goes from the pump area to the very top of the machine needs to be rotated clock wise where it locks into the pump strainer assembly. now remove the four star type screws from the face of the strainer, now you can lift out the entire bottom of the machine you will see the half round cover in the bottom of the well, remove one smaller size star screw. simply remove the chopper assembly and install the new assembly as indicated in the instructions provided, be sure to use the trick with the open end wrench as per instruction sheet, makes it easy. now follow the bread crumbs you left on the yellow brick road to reassemble.

Recently bought a whirlpool dishwasher, the dishwasher was converted to a portable dishwasher and they did not use the cord application power cord so they machine was blowing our breaker, instructions were very simple and installation was easy!

checked all the plactic tubes for clogs used water hose and they worked ok checked into top of pump found chopper assembly had come apart replaced washes like a new one

Watched a video and seen how easy it was to repair. Just disconnect the power, water and return drain. two bolts and replace element . The difficult part was removing and replacing the dishwasher...piece of cake.

Followed the repair video supplied by the site

Remove power source, then remove old power cord.Run new power cord through existing opening ang attach to existing power box on bottom o f dishwasher. Install electrical leads and device ground. Reinstall cabinet bottom. Check out operation by running a cycle. All ok!

Removing and installing the new part was fairly simple. We removed the water hose first since it is the easiest to see. We then removed the screw holding the part to the metal frame. We slid out the part out of the holder to remove the black hose and electric plug (it is like the old phone jacks). After it was completely off we plugged in the electric to the new part which was very easy since it can only go in one way. We slid the new part in place and attached the black hose. We attached the piece to the frame with the one screw and last we attached the gold (garden hose) connection. We turned on the water to look for any leaks then turned the power on and ran it through a partial rinse to be sure there were no leaks.

followed directions, a kid could have done it,

Rubber friction sleeves on each side of the door provide resistance to prevent the door from quickly opening when unlatched. Over time the friction sleeve may crack and fail. Two friction sleeves are required for repair. Install a new sleeve on each side of the dishwasher door near the spring connector at the bottom.

Open dishwasher door.

Remove the screw from the left and right bracket at top of dishwasher door opening. Brackets secure the dishwasher to the countertop.

Gently pull the dishwasher forward to expose the door spring on each side of door at bottom.

Unhook the plastic spring connector from the left door spring hook by pulling the connector slightly forward and lifting from the door spring hook. Remove the old friction sleeve if still in place by sliding over the door connection hook. Discard the old sleeve.

Insert the new friction sleeve over the door spring connector hook and push until the friction sleeve is in position completely past the spring hook. Reconnect the plastic spring connector to the door hook.

Repeat for right side of door.

Close and latch the dishwasher door. Unlatch the door. The door should remain in the nearly closed position held in place by the friction sleeves.

Slide the dishwasher back to the original position under the counter top.

Insert the screws in the top brackets to secure the dishwasher.

removed unit from cabinet disconnected water and drain lines replaced heater very easy to do it took more time to remove unit from under counter than replace heater piece of cake..

First run the cancel and drain cycle to empty the water from the machine. Next shut off the water and power to machine. Then disconect the water and drain hoses, and uninstal the machine from the cabnet. There are usualy just two screws at the top when you open the door. Before you take them out take out the bottom wash arm, and the screan and the cover over the food chopper. These are all held in with star screws. After the cover is taken out the chopper will lift right out. Next lay the machine on its side there is just one capscrew holding the motor in located behind it when lying down but first unpug the wire harnes to it. The motor will come out with just a small twist after the cap screw is out. To instal just twist in put in the cap screw and follow the directions backward till it is installed again.

Popped out the old motor and put in the new. Took some tinkering to understand all the hookups but was not too dificult. I am handy but other shouldn't have trouble either. Must dedicate a couple of hours at least.

First i turned off the water and the power, then removed the two screws to the access panel under the door. Then remove 1 screw to the electrical box and removed the wire nuts and pulled the cable out of the box. Then disconect the water supply which is up front, but very little room to work. I didn't have to diconnect the drain hose because it was long enough for me to pull out the machine. After removing to screws that hold the machine to the counter you can pull it out. Remove 2 wire from the terminals of the heat coil. Unscrew the plastic nuts from the washer and remove. Assemble in reverse order and check for leaks. I tested the old element as well as the new element for resistance before installing.