MDB6769PAB4 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Did the repair, but needed one extra step not described in video:

I followed the directions on the PartSelect Youtube video - very helpful! I do believe the heating element was the original culprit, as it had a "burn" area about the size of a dime that caused it to almost break into two parts. Obviously a point of failure.

BUT - after replacement, it still did not solve the problem of the dishes not drying.

After much web searching, I tried the diagnostic mode on the dishwasher, and that did a hard reset of the logic board and FIXED the problem.

So in all, it required both a new heating element AND a hard reset via diagnostic mode.

I simply had to hook up the power cord to the dishwasher so i could plug it into the outlet rather than direct wire the appliance. Everything went very smoothly. Everything needed for installation other than tools was provided. Easy to follow instructions if you know a little about electrical wiring.

We took off the old one by disconnecting everything and put in the new one an re-connected everything. Aligning the pump was a little difficult.

The water valve float lever was broke. So I replaced that and the water level switch. Probably didn’t have to replace switch. Very easy!!

Looked on you-tube and it was so easy. Pump on bottom right. unplug pump and do a halfway turn. Plug the new one up and place the pump on, and turn halfway and its on. START your dishwasher

You only need to pull it out about 6 to 8 inches and you don’t need to disconnect anything to slide it on

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

I Removed the upper wash rack by removing locks on each front slide of rack. I laid a towel in the bottom of the washer to keep anything dropped, retrievable. I then removed the top screw closest to the spinner location. I then carefully pulled down on the mounting, which exposed the bad bushing lock. I removed the old bushing lock and replaced with new one. I then replaced the spinner with a push with one hand while holding the bushing in place with the other hand. You will feel a snap as all goes into place. Make sure new spinner spins freely. Now reinstall removed screw. Do not over tighten. Now reinstall lower rack, carefully aligning water feed in rear of washer, and making sure all rollers are back in sliding rack. Reinstall locking tabs onto sliding rack. Now slide out rack, it should not come off slider. Important: now remove the towel in the bottom of the washer. If left in place, you will have a fire during the drying cycle. Close the door and test your washer through a cycle. I felt confident and did a load of dishes. If all went well, spinner should be in place, not in the bottom of the washer.

Watch your video about my dishwasher symptoms. Move water tube for upper rack to the right and release lower spray arm. Remove 4 clutch head screws from filter cover and remove. Dig out 10 years of undisolved soap and reassemble.

I turned off the power to the dishwasher, removed the kick plate, raised the front levelers, disconnected the electric to the appliance, turned off the water supply to the appliance, disconnected the water supply, disconnected the drain system from the garbage disposal, unscrew the appliance from the countertop, then I remove the appliance from underneath the counter. I then tilted the appliance back and then in screwed the plastic retainers that held the heater element in place, removed the old one, replaced it with the new one in reversed the whole process

Easily replaced motor and pump per video. Located high limit thermostat looking up from bottom and held on with two screw bracket. Reset code: push "Hi temp scour" then push "Air dry" then repeat push of "Hi temp scour" / "Air dry". Works like new - thanks.

Apparently this is a common issue on these Maytag dishwashers (I hope they fixed with the new part!). with an Allen wrench unscrew the bolts on the side of the front panel (dishwasher door). The first one on the top (each side) also holds the control panel so you want to release them first. After that you`ll have one nut bolt that hold the control panel to the inner side of the door (you don`t need to remove it completely, just flip it to have enough space to insert the nutdriver. Than you just have to disconnect the cable (check the piece you received so you don`t disconnect at the wrong point as I did) and work your way backwards until you close the front panel completely.

simply line up the new pin with the rectangular slot in the kick panel and metal panel behind, slide the pin in and turn it with a flat blade screw driver.
NOTE: the original pin was black. A black replacement part cost $29 plus shipping! A knock-off pin was only $6 plus shipping. I got the cheap one and colored it with a black Sharpee marker before installation.