LAT9306GGE Maytag Washer - Instructions

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

Use a blade to pop off the fabric softener dispenser cup. Use socket and extension to unscrew the single hex bolt that attaches the assembly to the shaft. Lift off the assembly and recover the flat washer. Install the new assembly over the shaft and install the original hex bolt and washer. Tighten firmly. Snap the dispenser cup back in place.

Washer originally purchased from Sears. Called Sears for repair. $65.00 to show up. Diagnosed the problem as a Bad belt and pump. Asked for approx. $250 to repair. I declined and ordered a belt and pump from PartSelect.com for half the cost. Took 10-15 minutes to install. Turned the washer on and put it through a drain cycle, it leaked all over the floor. Turns out the only problem was a cracked Outer Tub to Pump Hose. It took about 10 minutes to install. Whala, no leak. Now while I purchased an un-needed pump and belt from PartSelect.com, not their problem. Even though I purchased two items that were not required, the cost was still half of what Sears wanted to charge me for a repair that would not have fixed the problem. I will certainly continue to use and recommend PartSelect.com.

I went ot the Parts Select web site, and read what other people had done with the same problem. The advice was right on. Using the paper towel to hold the screw in place during reassembly ws great advice. Thanks for the heads- up.

Took a look at the new door switch assembly, used a socket wrench to remove the old, took wires off of old and attached them to the corresponding terminal on the new. attached the new assembly inside the top panel. Works!

I popped off the fabric softener on top of the agitator. Used an extended arm on my socket set to remove the only nut holding the agitator on the motor assembly apparatus. The agitator came off with ease. Just reversed the procedure in replacing the new agitator. This was an easy job.

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

Our Maytag (A308) washer is now about 29 yrs old. I put in a PartSelect water valve 3 yrs ago. When it started leaking recently I found the cuplrit to be a flexible hose to the outer basis. The front came off easily (two screws at the bottom) and the hose clamps required some cleaning. I recommend purchasing new clamps. Under 30 minutes to get it running again.

Unplug from electrical outlet.Unscrewed control panel and laid it open. The switch is in 2 parts. Removed wires and unscrewed each switch. Put wires back on and tightened switch back to mounting plate. No brainer. Tried washer and worked perfectly. Two tips: Check fuse on plate to make sure it isn't burned out before ordering any parts. Secondly when installing if you have older model washer there is a nib that sticks up on mounting plate that keeps the switch from installing correctly. Cut this nib off with a wire cutter and then install. The directions don't mention that.

removed control pannel, traced current flow to lid switch,in but not through, shorted power in to motor lead machine started, ordered switch, received switch, installed new switch, washed clothes.

Removed the damaged legs, replaced with parts from this site and leveled the washer .

Followed the procedures recommended for replacement of all the parts included in the Tub Bearing Kit and the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit as illustrated in a detailed, 32 minute repair video for the Maytag A606 washer which is available on YouTube. Many difficulties were experienced in the disassembly procedures due to extensive corrosion of tub bearing and tub stem parts (the washer is 47 years old).
I was not successful in using a special tub wrench that was purchased to break loose the old tub mounting stem and its threaded lock nut. The old tub mounting stem, lock nut, and the tub bearing race had to be cut off the threaded support shaft using a saws-all electric tool. Finally, corrosion on the edge of the tub caused problems with water leaks once the tub top and its rubber tub seal ring were reinstalled and the washer was put back into operation. The bottom line is that it may be questionable to attempt major repairs on washers that are 40+ years old and have any extensive corrosion in internal, mechanical parts.

I removed the lid switch assembly and replaced it with the new lid switch assembly. The assembly included the lid switch, lid. check switch, and fuse. It came as one complete part.

I followed the direction came with the part.

• I unplugged power electric wire from the wall.
• Unscrewed total of five screws from the back of the top console.
• Removed the top console to gain access the switch.
• I took pictures of the switch position for a future reference.
• Unplugged the switch wire by just pulling the plug.
• Carefully removed the switch and pulled the plunger out plunger assembly.
• Entered a new plunger in first and inserted a new switched carefully.
• Opened and close the lid few times to check the switch is going on an off properly. You will hear clicking sounds.
• Plugged the switch wire to the new switch.
• Reinstalled the console and screwed back the five screws.
• Plugged back the electric plug in wall outlet.
• Tested the washer by washing a full load of clothes.

The whole process took me about 30 minutes.

-Abhay

I followed the instructions on this website to a T. You can take the front cover off and you will notice a small drip from the tub area where the Hub bearings (above the tranny) meets the washing tub. Once you've identified that the leak is indeed coming from that area and not a loose tube. Allow the washer to complete the job and drain the water. Then simply unplug washing machine before starting the process of the repair. It is very important to remember that you must have a spanner wrench before attempting to perform this repair. keywords=spanner+wrench came within two days with Prime Shipping. Also be sure to order the replacement parts from this site. It takes about 3 days to arrive however so be prepared to be without a washer for a few days. Other than that just follow the instructions provided and there is a very good step-by-step video on this site .