KSRA22KKSS02 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

This was a very simple job. Remove the top Hinge bracket, a total of 4 screws, lifted the door off the bottom hinge, removed the bottom hinge set up, 2 screws, replaced it, and attached the new bottom black door cam, lifted the door back onto the bottom hinge and aligned the top hinge, and reinserted the screws, and Ta Da, The door works like a new refrigerator door. 15 to 30 min tops. I did not even have to take the refrigerator items out of there door holder.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

Fit in perfectly. Slid out the old one, replaced with the new one. Very easy. Very satisfied with the transaction.

Removed old switch and installed new - but did not solve problem

It took 2 minutes to search and find the correct part for half the price of the original part that I had inquired about.

Removed the 2 screws holding the light bulb shield, then the 4 uolding the metal panel. Unplugged the olw door switch and replaced.
reassembled the pieces.

The refrigerator would make loud sounds humming sounds periodically. The bearings were going out on the evaporator motor. Emptied the freezer side of fridge. Unplugged unit. Took shroud off (6 screws). Removed the three wire clips. Pulled fan off shaft. Carefully pushed plastic strap to remove motor. Replaced with new motor. Carefully attached strap to hold motor. This seems very fragile so be very carefull to attach properly and not break. Reverse the rest and done in less than 15 minutes. 30 minutes cleaning the fridge.

I was first reluctant to start poking around, as I am limited in my handyman skills. However, not wanting to spend a lot of money, I decided to get my hands dirty. I quickly identifed the problem being the run capacitor and overload protector. I then identified the parts I needed to order using partselect.com and looked at user stories. I was confident this would work. Ordered the parts (YOU NEED TO ORDER TWO PARTS!) and began replacement. However, one of the prongs that the part connects to, broke in half. I was able to fashion a copper sheath to serve a conductor and to my amazement it worked. Had that hiccup not occurred, this would have been a mighty easy fix. Everything about this site helped and defintely gave me a "Tim the Toolman Taylor" boost of confidence.

I followed the instructions of other people on this website. First, removing the plastic guard that covered the wires leading to the diffuser. Then I removed the screw that held in the diffuser. I should have done this next part first--it would have ben easier! Anyway, next I removed the plastic cover at the back-top of the freezer. It looks like it guides air into the freezer. After that, there is another plastic air guide, that connects into the diffuser. I had to pull this out. There was no screw. I did use a flat head to wedge in, and pop it out. Then I just popped out the old diffuser and disconnected the wires. To install the new diffuser I just reversed all these directions. I took about 30 minutes. If I had had more experience with this sort of thing, I could have done it in 10. My fridge is now perfect! I used a thermometer to test.

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

I added an icemaker kit. Everything I needed was in the kit. The refrigerator was presetup for an icemaker it was just never added. The only problem I had was that the holes for attaching the water solenoid were not pre drilled so I had to drill them myself and use sheet metal screws. The icemaker is working great.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.