KSCS23FVBL00 KitchenAid Refrigerator - Instructions

Actually, the part that was broken was a part that contained the slide that allowed the drawer to pull in and out which was connected to another part that held the drawer to the side of fridge.

I went on line to Kitchenaid.com, clicked on parts which brought me to a PartSelect website that made it really easy to find what I needed. There is an audio instruction guide to help you find what you need. I ordered it and it arrived in the next day or two. To install it I just had to snap it into place. Since I was already on the website I went ahead and order a new water filter.

Replacing this part was a breeze. But I could not believe how fast the part arrived at my doorstep - was expecting it to arrive in 3 days but it arrived in 2. And the part exactly the right one - the pictures on the sight helped a great deal in correctly identifying it.

I would absolutely order from here again and recommend it to friends.

On this model, access is very easy. The tray slides forward, and then lifting up with a little force at the back of it clears a stop, allowing it to slide out. This exposes two Philips/sq2 screws that hold the faceplate in place. The faceplate swings out and is lifted off the top edge. Disconnect the wire harness and set aside. Trace the cable from the door motor to the control board. Disconnect the cable and fish up behind the facing material. Remove screws holding the dispenser door mechanism. On that assembly, remove the screws holding the motor to the mechanism. Replace the motor. Put the mechanism back in place engaging the metal actuator arm in the door. Fish the cable down to the control board and plug in. Plug the faceplate wiring harness back in, and reinstall the faceplate. Secure with two screws and replace the tray. Done.

Searched my issue on the internet then chose part select to see if bi-metal thermostat was available and it was so I ordered part which was under $30.00 incl. shipping. I then went to You Tube to watch how to replace the part but most importantly to find out where it was located and degree of difficulty. Replacement was rather simple and it fixed our 22 year old fridge. I must add that when I looked up the part it also told you what percent of the time that particular item actually fixed the problem based on others experience. I thought that was neat info. as I felt better about ordering something that may or may not fix my problem. Thank you,

We popped out the new filter and replaced the cap with a twist. It was so easy. It is important to vaccum the front of the refrigerator for accumulating dust.

I replaced this same ice maker a month before, if that long, using a part I found $40 cheaper from another site. Needless to say you get what you pay for, the existing part was not exactly the same as the original and leaked water all over the place. I removed the not so old icemaker by removing the flapper door and removing the harness cover then pulling out the existing icemaker followed by disconnecting the wiring harness. Now with the old icemaker removed I removed the bottom tray/shield from the existing ice maker by removing the three screws from it then attached the tray to the bottom of the new ice maker from PartSelect which did not come with the bottom tray/shield. Finally, I executed the removal process in reverse order to install the new ice maker.

Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!

Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!

My tenants moved out of my rental property and abandoned their refrigerator there. The freezer door would not close properly because someone had previously removed the lower door support bracket and failed to replace the lower bracket shim that positions the lower part of the freezer door properly out from the refrigerator cabinet causing the door gasket seal to bind before the freezer door was fully closed. I removed and replaced this lower door bracket with a new shim made up of serveral thicknesses of cardboard to achieve this spacing and freezer door now closes and seals properly. They had never connected a water supply to the refrigerator although this model is equiped with an ice maker and in door ice and cold water dispenser. The access panel on the back of the unit had been previously removed and discarded. I made up a new access panel from cardboard and connected the water line to the solenoid valve. Valve was so old it would barely open when valve energized and water flow was too slow to make proper sized ice cubes and fill a water glass. I purchased a new water solenoid valve and replaced ther original valve and cured that problem. Replacing the access panel cured an improper cooling problem because with panel removed, most of the air flow bypasses the condenser coils. Lastly I replaced the upper tubular light bulb and the lower light socket I purchased here and installed a 40 watt bulb in the new light socket. Presto! I was able to turn non working abandoned refrigerator into a workable unit.

I removed two small bolts that secure the flapper that keeps ice from falling out when you open the door, one bolt that holds a cosmetic cover for the wires and slid the icemanker forward. The only difficult part was removing the plug since it was high up, the wires were stiff and there's a release to push that locks the two plugs together. Once it was removed all was installed in the opposire order.
The part I ordered had a slightly taller channel where the water refills so I had to trim it to allow the new icemaker to slide in without bending the fill nozzle. Other than that it was pretty easy.

Unplug power to refridg/freezer. Removed the screw in rt. rear bottom of ice maker to remove. After removing slightly, unplug pigtail. Remove ice maker completely. Remove large square cover from left side to expose motor. Remove screws to remove motor. Replce with new. Replace ice maker to freezer, plug pigtail back in, put screw back in rt rear bottom, plug refridg/freezer back into power source. Ice was making in about 2 1/2 hours.

I took out the old socket by moving a clip. Reattached the electrical wires, clicked in the socket and that was it.

change light bulbs

The cap will only fit on one way. Align with tabs on filter, twist on. Press the filter into place and press to seat. Locks into place.

Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator.
First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them.
Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.