KDTE104ESS4 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

I pulled the rack and removed failed parts, then reassembled. I would note that the videos are helpful as dishwasher racks can be a bit of a puzzle.

Why manufacturers use so much plastic in a heated environment is beyond me. The heat cycle degrades the plastic to failure - poor design!

The water valve float lever was broke. So I replaced that and the water level switch. Probably didn’t have to replace switch. Very easy!!

Two of the four small nylon/plastic tabs on the adjusters that support the top rack on the rack slides, broke off (one on each side).

Before the new parts arrived, I printed the limited (but definitely helpful) instructions that were available and familiarized myself with the adjuster assemblies.

As practice, I took one adjuster assembly apart making notes of any "gotchas." The main gotcha I found is that the nylon/plastic parts are easy to break (obviously) as prying is involved during removal and replacement. It took me about 20 to 25 minutes to take one side apart and about 10 minutes to put it back together again.

When the new parts arrived, I was able to do the first side in about 10 minutes (removal and replacement), and the second side in about 5 minutes, all because I had printed the instructions, familiarized myself, and practiced. I hope this helps.

thought it could be due to the overfill control switch,so ordered one and replaced one in the washer. However, it did not solve the problem. Having a repair company coming to look at the dishwasher. Tipped the washer on its back and switch was readily accessable. Only had to open plastic covering over the switch, disconnect the wires and install new switch and reconnect the wires.

Disconnected the damaged hose extension from the dishwasher outlet drain hose and the connection to the sink drain. Removed two clamps. One a spring clamp and the other a screw clamps. Connected the new extension hose with a spring clamp to the dishwasher outlet drain hose. Connected the other end to the sink drain with a screw clamp. Checked for leaks. Good to go!

Hardest part was pulling dishwasher away from cabinet, making sure to not disturb water and drain line. I replaced both door springs which are on the two sides and attached to the dishwasher frame towards the back. This necessiatated pulling the dishwasher about 2/3 out of cabinet. After attaching both springs to frame, replacing the balance kit was a breeze .One screw to remove and then replace with new pulley unit. Attach the supplied cord with attached fittings to spring and then around two pulleys and mounting point on frame. Done . Push dishwasher back into cabinet, reattach two screws to underside of counter. Probably did not require new springs as they seem heavy duty and were not broken upon examination but ordered them also and replaced just in case. Most problem would be with broken cord in balance link kit

I basically used the instructions provided with the "Your Order Has Shipped: email from you. It was quite easy. Thank You!.

I opened the package took out the replacement part and installed it with no tools. Easy, done in 10 minutes.

First, I bought the door balance link to replace the broken links that connect to the springs.

Because I didn't have enough slack to simply pull out the dishwasher far enough to reach the springs, I had to disconnect the water line and electrical wiring.
The only reason my repair took as long as it did was because there was so little room underneath the dishwasher for disconnecting the water line. I had to buy a shorter adjustable wrench. Also, I had leaks after reconnecting the water line. I had to tighten the compression nut as far as it would go. The nut wrapped around a white substance that had been applied to the threads (I believe this is called pipe tape), which did the trick for sealing the leak.

The repair was a complete success! The parts arrived fast and the information from other customers on the the PartsSelect website was invaluable.

Removed old housing parts and replaced them with the new parts I ordered. Very easy

simply line up the new pin with the rectangular slot in the kick panel and metal panel behind, slide the pin in and turn it with a flat blade screw driver.
NOTE: the original pin was black. A black replacement part cost $29 plus shipping! A knock-off pin was only $6 plus shipping. I got the cheap one and colored it with a black Sharpee marker before installation.

Pulled off old seal. Pressed into groove the new door seal. No parts required.

Located drain pump under dishwasher disconnected electrical from wall and pump twisted pump to remove, and installed new pump. Great customer service from Parts Select, helped to make sure i was ordering the correct part.

Make sure you have everything you need before you start. The upper rack adjuster broke when the left track failed and needed to be replaced. Although only the left side track failed, the right side would have soon enough.

This repair was fairly simple. First, toggle the circuit breaker off and turn off the water supply under the sink. Remove gray plastic covers to expose and remove Phillips head screws on each side of inner door frame then remove plastic kick plate before sliding the dishwasher out roughly 20”. The insulation needs to be folded back (tab release back bottom corner) to expose the four rack fasteners on each side. A small socket bit (I used a slow speed hand drill) makes quick work of removing old tracks but make sure one hand is inside on the track to catch what’s left of it. Replace both tracks (the second will fail) arrow pointing up using the fasteners you removed. Reset the insulation and make sure water, drain and electrical connectors are all in good order before sliding dishwasher back and fastening side frame screws to adjoining cabinets (tip: use painter’s tape or similar to keep screw head connected to screwdriver). Replace plastic caps and the kick plate. I had to replace the upper rack adjuster before reinstalling the upper rack on the new tracks. Check the bottom filter and reservoir for any plastic bits or ball bearings and remove them before turning power and water back on. Enjoy not having to hand wash dishes again. For me, about 40 minutes.

1) clear out the dishwasher
2) remove unit securing screws from top or sides of DW and cabinetry near the top or under the counter top
3) gently pull the dishwasher from the cabinetry about 20" is plenty, mind the connecting hoses and electrical connection
4) close the door! pull back the insulation from the area of the hinge and photograph both sides - this will save you the pain of going online
5) you will see the cord, the tensioning wheel assembly and the door balance spring on both sides
6) with the door closed to relieve tension on the cord, remove the cord from the balance spring - this can be done w/o tools at this point
7) remove the 5/16" screw from the plastic tensioning wheels and remove the tensioners, cord - leave the springs in place if not replacing them
8) install the door end of the cord to its hook on the hinge, install the new tensioning wheel assembly, install the old 5/16" self tapping screw through the lower wheel and into the outer hole in the frame
9) thread the cord from the door over the upper wheel and lower wheel. the lower wheel has cord retaining tabs to hold the cord on the assembly
10) hook the eye end of the cord to the balance spring and you are finished with the first side - repeat operations for the other side, reposition the insulation and slide the washer back in its cavity - do not forget to reinstall the stabilizing screws in the upper washer frame
11) you've done it!
12) have a cuppa and do your second washer that hasn't failed yet - it will soon.