JS48CXDBDB01 Jenn-Air Refrigerator - Instructions

removed the LED covers on both sides of the freezer, unplugged each circuit board, plugged in both circuits, replaced the LED covers, job complete, making ice

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

Broken plastic part in motor assembly. Very simple to replace. Sears wanted $322.00!!!

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

Do not try to pull out the water filter by the cap. There is a button that releases the filter so you will not have to replace the cap. The cap twists onto the filter. When replacing the filter, the cap goes onto the new one.

i followed the online instructions on how to take the icemaker apart, which were very easy to follow. Once the new part arrived it plugged right in and a few steps later it was back together. within the hour we were hearing the sound of ice dropping into the tray. thanks for all the help this definitely saved us money and hopefully we get many more years out of this icemaker.

The emitter code: Hold the flap that covers the receiver. (On the left) If the emitter does not stay red, the emitter and receiver are defected.

Replaced the emitter and receiver board

Unplug the refrigerator:

I first removed the ice-maker service door by removing the 2 screws at the top. Next, I removed the 3 screws on the lift side that housed the receiver. It is close, so remove the 1 gold screws on the receiver. This will allow you to separate the switch without any damage. Plug the new receiver in and reverse the process. Put the gold screw in to secure the board. Replace the 3 screws back into the receiver panel.

Remove the 3 screws on the right side. The emitter has 2 gold screws. Remove them so I could separate the switch. Plug the new switch in and replace the 2 gold screws.
Place the 3 screws back into the right side panel.

This process took roughly 30 minutes. After assembly, the ice make was dropping ice in 30 minutes.

There are several large parts places in my area but I saved about $35 by ordering online.
I place my order on Friday morning and the part was in my hands Saturday @ 6: 30 PM the next day.




Oliver of Riverdale, Ga

Called a repairman out. For $125 he told me what I already knew! The ice maker wasn't working. Said I needed new emitter boards and ice maker. Would go back to the shop and call me with an estimate. Estimated parts were $330 plus another service call to put them in.
Went on line and found PartSelect. Emitter boards were $87+shipping. Ordered. Arrived in 3 days. 3 screws on each side. Unplugged old boards. Plugged in new. 15 minutes. Still did not work. Took out ice maker and examined. Gear that drives ice ejector fell off. End of shaft broken. Ordered new motor unit from PartSelect. $61+shipping. Arrived in 2 days. Loosened 1 nut screw. Slid ice maker out. Unplugged. Removed motor cover. 3 screws removed motor. Replaced with new motor and reassembled. 15-20 minutes max.
3 hours later had ice coming out for under $160. Wish I had known sooner. Thanks PartSelect.

I did an internet search about the problem and found the information and experience that other people had. Ordered the part and that's it. One important thing to remember is to unplug the power supply of the appliance prior to making any repair. I short circuited the original board when I tried to plug it back in after cleaning the optics. (The board might have been bad before that.) The red light stop working but the frige is making ice non stop!!

Removed the Wiring & Troubleshooting instructions from behind the front Grill and used to troubleshoot the KSCS25IN side by side refrigerator. I then removed the three screws from the Emitter assembly on the left side of the freezer. Then disconnected the four pin connector. Removed screw holding emitter PCB to housing and replaced with the new PCB and then re-installed. Similar steps for the Receiver assembly and PCB on the right side of the freezer. Unit started making ice after making some water level adjustments on the Timer assembly.

I removed the icemaker. One screw at the bottom and then unplug the electric. Remove the old motor from the face that has 3 screws holding it. Put the new motor in. A very simple job. I now have a full ice bin by the next morning.

Repair was real easy, I had to remove several screws in the bottom of the icemaker module housing. The unit slide out with no problem there was a wire assembly that hat to be disconnected but this did not present a problem. The old module came out real easy after removing 4 screws and the replacement was not a problem to but in.

The repair was simple.

I first did a diagnosis of the optical cuircuits and found them good. The tray heated up and when resetting the moor controller, the water cyccled to fill the tray so the only other thing it could be was the motor controller.

removed the service door for the ice maker
I removed the wire protectore screw and shroud
pulled the icemaker unit out and unplugged the unit
removed the motor controller end cap
unscrewed 3 screws holding the motor controller
removed and replaced the motor controller. ensured that all wire harness connector poiints were solid
reverse the above instructions and in 5 hours I was getting ice again!

$90 turned out to be a savings from the $250 it would have cost to have someone come out and look at the fridge.

I highly recommend to anyone who can read and use a screwdriver to perform this repair if you have diagnosed this as the root of your problem!

I first had a technician come out to the house and he wanted to charge nearly $300 to replace the icemaker unit. I told him he was "high" and began doing my own research of the problem. That's when I found this website (thank God!) and read the notes from other customers. I figured out the secret location of the KitchenAid icemaker troubleshooting guide (why they hide this information I have no idea -- it's ridiculous), and performed the diagnostics to determine the exact problem. That is how I discovered that the emitter and receiver control boards were bad and not the icemaker motor module as the technician had tried to tell me. Good thing I didn't pay him, because my icemaker still wouldn't be working! The electronic control boards are a piece of cake to replace -- just 3 screws on each. Be careful with the electronical connectors since they snap in - don't pull on the wires, first unhook the snaps holding the wire connector to the board and then disconnet it. Once I replaced the boards I turned my refrigerator back on and immediately I heard the water running to fill up the icemaker and not much later I heard my first piece of ice hit the bucket. Woohooo!!!! It feels nice to fix a problem myself for a reasonable price. This site rules. I'll be coming here again in the future!!!