JGS9900CDS02 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

The porcelain cracked on the burner igniter, it wouldn’t spark and light the flame. I got tired of using the fireplace lighter to light this main burner.

If you have to replace your igniter, it should be very very easy. Remove the two torx screws Holding the cast iron burner to the stainless steel top. Pull it up and the wire connected to the igniter should pull through the small hole in the stainless steel top. Turn the cast-iron base over, pull the wire off, and there is a little screw Fastening the igniter to the bottom of the cast-iron Base. Remove the old igniter and screw the new igniter in place, reattach the wire, and screw the base down to the stainless steel top. That’s it, or how it should be. After years of spaghetti water, gravy, etc. boiling over, I was only able to remove one of the torx screws after using some WD-40 and a torch to heat it up. The other screw sheared off at the head. And a little screw holding the igniter in place, the Phillips head was stripped! I had to leave the roof or the igniter in place, break off all the porcelain, and then break the rest of the metal off leading the screw in place. So I had to use my Dremel grinder to remove some of the metal on the new igniter, then use some tinfoil underneath it to stabilize it in place and then tighten the cast-iron base down using only one screw. Even with one screw and using the tinfoil, it is stable and everything works now. This $27 part was a heck of a lot cheaper than paying $5000 for a new range top!

Installation is simple and very straight forward. Problem, was i stripped the torx screw to release electrode because the screw was frozen. I then tore electrode out leaving space to use penetrating oil (inaffective ) then using a chisel to pop the screw out. It came out intact and did not damage the threads in the burner. So what could have been a 20 minutes job, turned into over an hour. But still worth doing myself.

Removed the gas deflector; unscrewed the burner body; pulled off the ignition wire; unscrewed the bad electrode; screwed in the replacement electrode; reversed the steps. Voila! Perfect operation once again. My one mistake? Ordered the wrong electrode initially. Make sure you get the right part the first time around.

Watch the video. Spot on instructions. Easy peasy.

This should be a 5 min job. Lift off the burner cover, remove two screws to lift of the burner base and then remove a Phillips head screw that hold the burner igniter in place.

Unfortunately, the screw holding the burner igniter was rusted and it could not be loosened. WD-40 did not touch it. I used a stronger penetrant, "Blaster". Still it would not budge. Then I used a small Phillips head screwdriver and a hammer which I used as an impact driver. I twisted the screwdriver slightly to loosen and hit it was a hammer. Then I twisted the screwdriver slightly to tighten and again hit it with a hammer. After the penetrant and a couple of more tries, the rusted screw finally moved!!!

With no rust, this should be an easy 5 minute replacement. The burner now works great!!!

Remove the door.
Remove screws
Clear out broken glass. Vacuum out small glass shards.
Clean all glass.
Reattach all parts.
Replace the door.
Smile!

Hired a pro. Parts are difficult to get on a timely basis today , if at all. Screw up this repair by damaging the outer " black glass " and you buy a new stove. It took three weeks to get my replacement glass even though PS said the part was being sent within a day of the order. Even so , I am am happy to have gotten it , and will continue to use the company.

Just removed the shield (2 wing nuts) than the burner (1 Screw). THe back needs to be removed to unplug the igniter. I than reversed the process until I got to the plug and found that I had 2 male ends. I than had to remove everything and go back to square one until I find the part with the correct end (which should be Female) I'd check this before getting too deep into the repair.

Wanted to deep clean the range, but popped the worn screw heads on both the burner mounts and igniters embedded in the chassis. The way the range is designed, the bolts extend through the glass top and into the burner orifice. The bolts were unable to be extracted so replacement was the only option outside of a small third party machine shop. The double burner is discontinued and impossible to find, will replace this "High-End" POS when we remodel.

Removed Burner Heads
Disconnected igniter Leads
Extended range to remove glass top
Removed glass top mounting screws
CAREFULLY Removed Glass Top (REPLACEMENT = $800 Min)
Removed affected burner orifices
Tracked down parts list and maintenance manuals
Tracked down similar issue:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfCLJ1rXK6w&t=114s
Replacement bolts : #8 24 X 0.5" Sheet Metal Screws
Ordered Replacement parts and installed in reverse

First reviewed other review on this repair. Disconnected ignitor system from electrical source (pulled plug); removed 2 screws holding casing in place; removed it from the cooktop; & removed additional screw holding ignitor. Replaced ignitor and reversed the process. Done.

replaced heat sensor

I received my glass panel realy quick from Part Select. It was an eansy job to install the new pane.
It took less than an hour. Thanks for Your prompt service.

Removed two star screws from the top of the burner, disconnected the wire going to the Ignitor, removed the old ignitor held in with one phillips screw, installed new ignitor and re-installed the burner assembly. Simple!

To replace the igniter, I removed the oven door, all racks, the cover for the burner element and the shield over the burner element. I also removed the back panel to access the wiring. Removal of these elements was easy and took only a couple of minutes. When I tried to remove the old igniter from the bracket supporting it, one of the screws was stripped. Unfortunately I had to drill this screw out and replace it. If I didn't have to do this, both jobs would have taken about 20 minutes combined. After removing the igniter from the bracket, I replaced it, ran the electrical to the back where the wiring harness was and reassembled the components.

As for the upper oven temperature sensor, it took 5 minutes. I removed the two screws holding the sensor in place and pulled it out which exposed the electrical connection. I simply unplugged it, and screwed the new one in its place. I then connected the wiring harness.

I had to wait week for parts that were supposedly in stock No notice about delay I had to call to find out you really dropped the ball on this one