JDB9000CWB2 Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

After finally getting the older wheels off, it was literally a snap putting the new wheel assemblies on. I still don't know the best way to get the old ones off, to be honest, but putting the new ones on was really easy.

Turned the dishwasher in its side. Used the video step by step. This is why we purchased from this site

I ordered the part from this website and easily replaced it.

Replaced door latch

Initial inspection of the issue and research suggested the door latch was malfunctioning / broken. I bought the part and expressed it home. The installation involved removing the door screws on the inside of the door, separating the front and back panels, unplugging the door latch, removing it from its niche and popping in the new one. Reverse the take apart and it was done. Very simple swap. Hardest part was juggling the two halves of the door and preventing the door for trying to close in the process as the bulk of the weight is in the outside half of the door.

The new part did not fix the issue. The door strike was the next part that could be broken / malfunctioning. I ordered that part as well and replaced it. In the process of replacing it I found that the original door strike had been installed upside down. I am guessing it was installed at just the right pitch, or maybe even bent at the manufacturing facility, so that it latched. No idea how it managed two years like that. I installed the new one correctly and the door latches perfectly. Both parts I removed from the unit I will retain if my new parts should fail in the future.

pulled the dishwasher out (took the most time-1 hour) and 30 min. to install new door balance kit and springs. Replace both sides while the unit was out.

Removed the new part and forced fitted the new part.

Popped damaged/worn wheel assembly off, snapped new ones in. Easy peasy

Remove entire top rack and place on a large flat work surface. A small screwdriver is needed to release several plastic clips holding the upper drawer slider brackets and manifold in place. Carefully pry the clips free of their mounting holes and remove the bracket. Take some time to study how things are held together before removing anything since one plastic clip is closely affected by the others. Without pictures, and a video, it's really difficult to put into words. I must stress, do not force anything. When disassembling, use the opposite side to as a visual aid to reassemble.

Purchase 4 roller wheel assemblies and installed them with only a screw driver to open the tangs. quick and easy and rack rolls smoothly inside the dishwasher. Rather expensive $58 per roller assembly and hopefully these last the lifetime of the dishwasher.

First I got online to troubleshoot issue to save mysel from a service call. One of the first UTube videos, a young man said usually the main issue was the lever. He pushed down on the floater. If it didn't click, than the lever below needed to be replaced. Most important to turn off the circuit breaker before beginning the repair. I got on whirlpool.com, Part Select, ordered the lever, which was under $10. And once delivered, was able to switch out the old lever with the new replacement. Part Quote video took me through the process step by step. The lever package was marked that usually it was only 2% of the time that replacing the lever fixed the issue. Of course, I was thrilled, my dishwasher was up and running again. Thank you.

My Husband did it

The 1st person i had contact with wasn't any help choosing the correct part. Paid about $30.00 for the wrong part. Paid $8.00 more to ship the wrong part back for reimbursement. Meanwhile my son went to a local repair shop and got the right part for less than $40 and the repair shop installed the part on the rack for free
I was not happy with Part Select! Part Select cost me time and money and didnt get the job done

Pulled dishwasher out of compartment, removed all parts underneath. removed inner parts, removed pump assembly. Installed new pump assembly and grommet. Reassembled in reverse order, test ran and unit was operating normal and no leaks.

Per suggestions from other reviews, I looked for You Tube videos for replacing this part. The video I used was completely necessary, but moved way too fast, so required lots of stopping, rewinding and starting again. But I managed to get the old rack adjuster removed and the new one installed without too much trouble.
Then I tried installing it in the pull-out rail. The front connector on the new adjuster would not fit into the appropriate slot. Initially I thought maybe the part was defective, but determined that the dimensions were as accurate as my eye and tape measure could evaluate. Finally, I settled on the expedient of filing away at least 1/16" from one edge of the slot so that the connector would drop into place.
Not sure why this discrepancy existed but the problem appears to be resolved.