JB988BK5BB General Electric Range - Instructions
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Bottom Heating element quit working after 30 years
Removed several screws and removed element. Replaced same. Total ten minutes.
Parts Used:
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Harry from Dills burg, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 person
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Plastic guide Broken
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NICK from Vernon, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
9 of 25 people
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Stove was not getting enough power.
My stove didn't seem to be getting enough power for the oven to heat up and the burners to get hot enough. When I checked the connection of the electric cord I found that one of the 3 terminals that the plug connects to was broken off. When the new part came I removed the old part by first disconnecting the 3 wires [black,white(ground),red] and then using a small but long 1/4 socket (that I found at Lowes)I removed the 2 screws that held the old part to the stove and the green screw under it holding the flat copper piece that also connects under the white ground wire of the part. I mounted the new piece on with the 2 1/4 screws. The new part comes with a piece of copper that is for grounding the part to the stove. When I compared it to the old part it was a little different. I first screwed the copper piece onto the stove (under the part) with the green screw then I screwed the white wire over the copper piece to the center terminal(you have to make the hole of the copper piece line up to the screw hole). I connected the other 2 wires and then connected the electric cord to the new terminal block and then put the back cover back on the stove and plugged it in. The clock came on I turned on the four burners they all got hot and red. I turned on the oven the element on the bottom got red I then turned on the broiler the top element got red. My stove is fixed.
Parts Used:
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Nathan from Wells, ME
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person
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Oven will not heat
As many people have encountered, my oven would not heat but the igniter would be bright orange and glow! Over time, the igniter wears and degrades causing oxidation to the surface. This cause the igniter to fail and operate at a lower current level, below 2.8 amps! Normal igniters operator over 3.0 to 3.1 amps. When is happens, a low current igniter does not have enough input to the control valve to tell the valve to open to allow gas to flow over the igniter to light the oven, thus heat the oven! This has got to be the NUMBER one reason for an oven not heating!
Parts Used:
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Joseph from Homosassa, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 2 people
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Change bulb
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Louis from LEAGUE CITY, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
3 of 8 people
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F2 error when oven was heating up, along with a beeping noise and then it shut off
Unplugged oven, turned off breaker, took cover off back of oven, removed old sensor by disconnecting in back of oven and undoing screw inside oven. Pulled old one out replaced with new took 15min. Cost me less than $20. Parts Select rocks! Even received part in two days with standard shipping!
Parts Used:
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Lori from Paris, TN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
0 of 1 people
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oven was not getting up to temp
Once I opened up the back of the range, the sensor wires where there and burnt just like your info said. One nut to take off in the oven and the sensor came right out and the new one went right in. The oven works great, cooked the turkey today. The worst part of the repare was the cleaning behind and under the range, it hasn't moved since it was put in 6 years ago. Very pleased with PS.
Parts Used:
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walter from townshend, VT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
0 of 1 people
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Broken Probe Sensor
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Michael from Tucson, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
0 of 1 people
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f-2 or f-3
remove two bolts in on sensor and slip thru back un plug and reverse to put in
Parts Used:
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daniel from gap, PA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Hard to move drawer in and out because the rear drawer supports broke off.
Repair was very easy - less than a few minutes - just had to screw in 2 screws to the new drawer supports.
Parts Used:
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Steven from Lansdale, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Only inner burner would heat
Pretty easy. Pull oven out from wall and un-plug. Open oven door and look up. Find two small sheet metal screws and remove. Remove two retainer clips, un-plug triple haliant element and install new part. Re-install retainer clips, replace screws and you are done.
Parts Used:
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Frank from Northport, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Oven light wire broken, damaged socket
Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.
Parts Used:
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Patricia from Brandenburg, KY
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
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oven not warming, f2 indicating overheat
Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.
Parts Used:
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David from Lisle, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Part rusted ... Looked bad.
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Joseph from Powell, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Range lower drawer would not stay on track.
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Richard from Newark, DE
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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