IUD9500WX4 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

needed apart on a machine that I had no number for. The gal sent me pictures of knobs and went to a lot of trouble and time but found the correct part. Happy to say my wife got the new part it was perfect and a happy ending. If ir weren't for the patience and attitude of the sales rep I would still be pulling my hair out. Other parts retailers I called wouldn't even talk to without a lot of exact technical information. THANK YOU

After pulling the dishwasher out from under the cabinet, I found it underneath near the back right side. I disconnected the old thermostat, unscrewed the clamp holding it into place, put the new thermostat in, screwed it back in and replaced the two plugs. Then I pushed the dishwasher back into place, and it initially didn't work until I found an online forum that was able to identify the reset command for my dishwasher (for the WDT710PAYM4, press any three buttons in a sequence of 1 2 3 1 2 3 1 2 3. After completing that all the lights lit up, and I shut the door leaving it for half an hour) Once the reset finished, the heated dry worked like it was suppose to.

Looked at other side of top rack which still had the stop. Just had to orient the direction of the stop and push it firmly onto the rack arm. Took a couple tries, but it went in and locked. Works perfectly. Inexpensive and easy fix to to very annoying problem.

1.Check the lines for any obstruction. Gunk can easily build up. I have used the dishwasher for approx. 10 years. I do rinse/scrap dishes prior to loading.
2. Drain all remaining water.
3. Unplug the dishwasher.
4. Grab a towel and proper screw driver. Unscrew the bottom protective plate. Remove the insulation plate.
5. The drain pump is located to the bottom left. Have your towel under it. Unplug it gently. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
6. Install the new drain pump (reverse order)
7. Return the insulation plate. Screw back the bottom protective plate.
8. Plug in

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.

I am a 61 year old woman and it took me a total of 2 min. max. Popped it into place and pushed in button that holds it..Taa Daa...perfect!

I removed the old seal and carefully cleaned the track into which the seal was fixed. No tools other than some ordinary cleaning liquid, cloth and small wooden piece to swab out the track. Easy and quick. As a note here, I first used the incorrect schematic for the unit and ordered the wrong seal. However after receiving the wrong part, I made the correction and reordered. I did this over the phone as I needed instructions to return the part. The person taking my order and answering my questions was very helpful and I want to take this opportunity to thank her.

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

put new hose on, very easy.

I opened yutube and noted the tips on how to fix specific problems with my dishwasher. That "steve" guy was very helpful. I tested the old bi-metal fuse with no flow and ordered a new replacement through partselect. The part arrived in one day and was fitted quickly. I used the teat meter to confirm that the fuse was ok before I installed it. The only problem that I had was identifying the part and number from a diagram which I did not have.

Just removed the old seal and followed the instructions that came with the new one. Since the old one didn't have any adhesive on it ,I didn't use the adhesice on the new one. Problem solved!

I am NOT an appliance technician. I am simply a somewhat handy homeowner. Removal of outer door panel requires removal of two screws from inside the top of the door assembly at the latch, as well as all of the obvious mating screws from around the perimeter of the inside of the door assembly. Use a #15 torx driver bit. Pull top of panel out (away from the machine) by maybe two inches, then lift the outer panel up to clear the bottom end of it from the lower positioning brackets. DO NOT lever the top of the panel outward. Keep it close to the inner door. It may take bit of an upward tug to dislodge. Careful here - the outer panel will simply fall free. Two wire pigtails that are connected to components on the inner door are short, so be careful not to strain them after dislodging the outer panel. One is connected to the dispenser. Disconnect both as to provide good clearance for the component replacement. The main wire harness is of sufficient length as to not cause a problem. The six 3/16 hex head screws holding the dispenser in place are easy to remove. There are two small sheet metal tabs that keep the device in place after the screws are removed, but a rectangular mounting frame or bezel will come off, along with the little black curtain that protects the unit. The tabs are at upper left and lower right at the perimeter of the opening in the inner panel. They must be levered gently as to allow the dispenser to push inward for removal. After removal, spend some time cleaning the inner surface of the inner panel as to ensure that the new device will make a watertight contact when fastened in place. Bend the tabs slightly back to an inward position, and install the new dispenser with the socket and motor to your left as you look at it from outside the machine. It clicks in to place and stays put. The bezel mounts only one way (in terms of being upside down) and the flat surface must be toward the inner door. Re-positioning the little black curtain is tricky but if you follow the marks in the material from the previous mount it should work out OK. Tighten the screws evenly as to ensure a good seal. Move the outer cover closer and reconnect the two plugs. Use an object to wedge the inner door open by a few inches, and lift the front panel such that you can position it and slide it back down on the inner panel as to re-engage the lower holding brackets. This keeps the bottom of the panel in place during the reassembly. Now for the fun part... The upper end of the outer panel has to be positioned just right against the inner panel in order to seat the two long screws that straddle the latch assembly from the inside. You'll need clamps, or two people. There's a flat rubber seal on the top edge of the inner door. See that it is seated properly, and then that it becomes covered by the outer panel. If one person firmly holds the panels precisely in position, then the other person can install the screws to a point of being mildly snug. The other two longer screws go in the top-most holes at the upper/outer corners of the door assembly. Place them next. From there, you can carefully replace all the rest of the screws. Only after all of the screws are in place should you make all of them tight. You're done.

1. do not order or buy anything before examining the tension nut and washer. 2. Unplug the unit. 3. Open the switch box before trying to remove the float. Two types; easiest is pin based and lifts out easily. If the float catches, it likely has a headed bottom and needs an assist to lift past the stop flanges. 3. Using a standard ohmmeter, check for continuity. If it checks no need to replace. 4. Check float and assembly for abnormalities; cracks, lime deposits, etc. 5. Now decide what needs replacing. Did all my work with relative ease without pulling out the appliance. A couple sequences may need realigned.

Remove the mounting screws that hold the dishwasher under the counter top. Remove dust cover plates at the bottom of the machine. The machine will have to be pulled out, so turn off the water to the machine. Usually under the kitchen sink. Disconnect water supply and push it out of the way so the dishwasher can be pulled out. Pull machine out enough so you have access to the door cables and springs. The door will have to be in the closed(up) position to do the repair. Usually only one side is broken. Start with the broken side and copy the working side when installing new parts. Then repair the working side. To get the working side apart just pull on the spring and disconnect it from the cable. Do the reverse to reinstall.