HTDP120GD1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Snapped right into place , less than a minute, if that

UNPLUGGED THE DRYER AND PULLED THE DIAL FROM THE START SWITCH. REMOVED THE FOUR SCREWS FROM THE TOP OF THE CONTROL PANEL WITH A T20 STAR SCREWDRIVER. PULLED THE CONTROL PANEL COVER FORWARD. LABELED THE THREE WIRES GOING TO THE START SWITCH WITH THE NUMBERS ON THE OLD SWITCH. PULLED THE WIRES OFF THE OLD SWITCH. LIFTED THE RETAINING CLIP ON THE OLD SWITCH AND ROTATED THE SWITCH ABOUT 90 DEGREES. PULLED THE OLD SWITCH OUT AND INSTALLED THE NEW SWITCH, ROTATING IT UNTIL THE RETAINING CLIP SNAPPED INTO PLACE. CONNECTED THE WIRES TO THE CORRECT NUMBERED TERMINALS ON THE NEW SWITCH. PUT THE CONTROL PANEL COVER BACK IN PLACE AND REATTACHED IT WITH THE SCREWS, REPLACED THE DIAL AND PLUGGED IN THE DRYER.

On my GE Dryer the lint filter is located inside the door at the bottom. The filter can just be pulled out by hand & a new one pushed into place

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

The shaft of the previous nob had cracked and even super glue would not hold it together. The dryer timer could no longer be set without it. Slipped it off and slipped on the new one and it worked perfectly.

good replacement procedure on you tube.

started with replacing the belt and tension pulley which I purchased from another source. I found your videos on line and they are great. easy to follow. Realized I needed the bottom vent assembly and your prices were better than my local supplier. It was easy to replace thanks to your video. It was nice that you included it in the final order status. The only problems. Did not know the duct felt seal was included with the new duct assembly. I ordered the wrong bearing slides, web site showed both green and white for my model. I now realize I should replace the upper bearing housing. Can I return the unused parts, unopened and have that put as a credit to my next order? Thanks

Snap out the broken part. Snap in the new part. Use caution with the wires, but don’t have to disconnect them.

Replaced new screen in place of old one.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

Took apart the dryer housing fairly quickly, pulled out the drum, and installed the kit. Was fairly simple. Then reassembled. The hardest part was trying to get the belt on properly and reconnect to the motor. Believe it or not, I wasted most of my time on the belt. Should've watched the video better and listened to my wife and her suggestions.

Remove top control panel, disconnected wire from old switch to new switch (remover 1 wire at time so it would not get mixed up)twisted old switch out inserted new switch and replaced control panel now works like it should. I thought it might would be a safety issue is why I replaced it

Open dryer door, reach in at the 12 o'clock postion
on the inside is the bulb.

Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.

It's no surprise that GE would use cheaply made parts in such a mass produced product, but it was irritating to see the start switch fail just fourteen months after purchasing the dryer. I am glad that a little thought was put into an easy snap and twist installation of the control panel switches. The original switch failed, due to arcing and pitting of the contact points no doubt, and the local parts house didn't even recognize the part, let alone have it in stock. Thanks to PartSelect.com I could have the part in just a couple of days!
The panel comes appart with just four star driver screws on top, but an allen wrench will work also. Wire jumpers with spade connectors are pulled apart and reattached with needle nose pliers.
In the mean time to keep the dryer operational, I did some creative "re-assigning" of some of the control panel jumper wires using the switch that controled the "Wrinkle Care" setting as a temporary Start Switch as it had the same current handling limits. By the way before attempting such a temporary bypass setup, consider not voiding any warrantee arrangement still applying to the product and have some basic electronics and safety knowledge, study the provided schematic well attached to the back panel and remember to write down all of the original wire connections. And when in doubt, calling a qualified GE appliance repair person is your best and safest bet.
New part went right in in about 15 minutes with original wiring restored and double-checked and the dryer is running right on que again.
Thanks PartSelect.com!