GW399LXUS1 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Remove oven door, pan drawer, oven racks, bottom pan, flame spreader. Remove valve cover at back of pan drawer. Unplug old igniter. Remove two mounting screws holding igniter to gas tube assembly. Install new igniter, plug it in, and reassemble. Easy as pie! Oven works better than it has for a looooong time! Heats up to 400 in 5 minutes. Wife is happy! :)

The ignitor heated up and the broiler worked but not the bake mode. Repaired per instructions

Open oven door remove trays.. remove floor of oven...remove single screw holding heat shield... unscrew two srews holding ignitor and unclip plastic...done..reverse to install

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.

Remove rear sheet metal cover. Disconnect the temp sensor wiring connector (on the left side as viewed from front).

Open oven, take out the 2 screws attaching sensor and remove. Reverse for installation.

Included wiring adapters are not needed for this model oven.

Once I saw the spring clips on the new door seal, it was easy to understadn how to remove the old seal and install the new one. Looks nice !

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

Simple process. Pull the unit out approximately 6 inches. Remove 2 phillips head screws on the left side panel which is about 3 inches wide and runs from the top to the bottom of the unit. No need to remove the panel on the right. Two hex head screws hold each hinge in and are visible once the oven door is removed by opening the door about 20 degrees and lifting it off the hinges. Once the door is off, simply remove the two hex head/self tapping screws holding each hinge in place and remove the hinges from the rear of the front of the oven. Reverse the process to install the new hinges. Do not over tighten but remember they are self tapping and need just a bit of tightening until the hings feels solid. Replace the door by sliding it over the hinges and you're done.

Remove two screws back panel and remove sensor two screws inside top oven.

My oven would not work. It took longer & longer to fire, finally died. I did an online search & found partselect.com, with it's very helpful troubleshooting info, and somebody posted info that 80-90% of the time it's the ignitor that has failed. I ordered it Sunday night, it arrived Tuesday. I took the door off for easy access, took the bottom of the oven out, removed the flame shield and replaced the ignitor. I tested it and it worked! The hardest part was moving the stove away from the wall & threading the ignitor plug thru the back of the oven. The cheapest appliance repair visit would have been $89 + cost of parts. Sears charges $129. I think I saved at least $100, thanks to partselect.com.

This website easily diagnosed the probable problem. We ordered the suggested part and my husband replaced it, despite a slightly eroded, rusted screw that was stubborn to remove, in about 20 minutes. The oven is working perfectly. With tax we spent about 50 bucks. I was sure we needed a new oven. We, ironically, celebrated by going out to dinner!

removed the old defective ingniter and installed new igniter turned on the ove n and wala, it was like brand new.

part was purchased as spare because when the ignitor goes bad no warning is given it just fails.

We took the interior floor out, pulled the stove away from counter, before that turned all electricity to the house off. Then we unscrewed the ignitor inside then underneath unplugged it and plugged in the new one, cleaned to oven and screwed the ignitor in and replaced the interior floor and we were done.

Screwed in light bulb and glass protector