GW399LXUQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

I removed the oven racks, the bottom of the stove and a v-shaped cover that was over the heating element. The old gas ignitor screwed off easily after I put W-D 40 on the nuts. I un ooked the old gas igniter and replaced it with the new one. The oven lit immediately after I replaced everything. I am very proud of my self, I feel like a femal Bob Villa. I almost bought a new range. Boy am I happy!

Simple... unscrew the 2 screws and unplug the electrical connection to uninstall and just the opposite to install.

I first removed the screws inside the oven,let the tube that the flames come out of hang down,removed the screws from the igniter. Then I took the cover off the back of the stove and unplugged the old igniter and plugged in the new one. I put all screws back and put every thing back in place and the oven has been heating up every since. Thank you parts select. My husband is a otr trucker and won't be home until the 20th of this month. One less item on his "honey do list".

1. Slowly pull the stove from wall. 2. Unplug 120 volts plug from outlet. 3.Turned off the gas outlet. 4. Open the stove door, remove the racks, then unscrew (2) screws that hold the short oven sensor in place. 5. Slowly pull sensor out of it's housing. Remove the clip that holds the sensor. Install new sensor using the clip. Push sensor back through the hole opening. Screw the (2) screws into the mount to secure the sensor. 6. Plug the 120 volt plug into the wall outlet. Turn on the gas outlet. Test stove by turning on oven. It works like a new stove. Wife is happy, and Thanks Giving Dinner is on! Reverse your steps to secure your stove. A total of 25 minutes after cleaning the dust under stove. Thanks for everything. By the way, Thanks Giving Dinner was delicious.

Ordered the broiler igniter that matched my model from part select and installed. Easy and part works as it should. Only took a few days to get here and saved me $40 by not purchasing at a local parts store as well. Will use part select if there are any future needs.

I located the temp sensor (top left). Removed the 2x Phillips screws and slide the wire out until the plug is thru the opening taking care not to pull to hard as to damage the end that you not going to replace. To install plug it in and push the wire thru and secure with 2x Phillip screws.

Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.

Check and see if power is going to the ignitor. Do an amp draw test on the ignitor. The gas valve will not open if it won't draw the right amount of current. Sometimes it will glow but wont be pulling the right amount of juice. In my case it wasn't even glowing but it still looked okay. The mounting screws can break or strip upon removal if they are old. In my case I had to drill a hole, for a new screw, on the back one, and the front one tried to strip out. I might try a little heat next time before removing them. If no power is going to the ignitor when you turn on the oven it might be that the board has gone bad. The ignitor should draw close to 3 amps.

It's happened before and the igniter has always been the problem. This time, however, the mounting holes were slightly off and had to be drilled out. The connector didn't mate up and so both had to be cut off, the wire stripped back and wire nuts used to make the connection. In the end, it all worked out. I guess since its kind of old, you can't stock every component for every oven. Oven works perfectly now.

There are two elements to look at, one on top (broil) and one on the bottom (bake). Same element but may have different connectors. Double check before ordering.

Diagnosed the issue by removing the bottom panel of the oven. (two little screws) Once the panel was out I turned the oven on with the door open to see what was happening.

Noticed that the heating element wasn't lighting up in order for the gas to ignite. Unplugged the oven and removed the heating element. Two screws hold the heating element in place. Removed those. Then, there is a panel on the back of the oven with one screw to remove. Once panel is removed you have easy access to the heating element connecting electric plug. Disconnect this plug by simply pulling apart.

Then, I was able to go back to the inside of the oven and slowly pull the heating element with plug out. The heating element had the part number on it. My oven is a Maytag which, is made by Whirlpool.

Went online to Whirlpool PartSelect and ordered my part. The part came in two days. Installed my new part and plugged in my oven to test the part. Part worked perfectly. Unplugged the oven and finished the installation process.

I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light assembly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.

Replace the racks. No special instructions.

For the Ikea Range isg650ws01, the repair was very easy.

Step 1) Slide the range away from the wall slowly, verifying occasionally to not strain the gas or electric lines

Step 2) Unplug the range

Step 3) There are 2 phillips heads screws holding the rear panel in place. Remove the two screws and remove the panel.

Step 4) The cooling fan is held in place with 2 phillips head screws. Remove the screws and disconnect the electrical cord

Step 5) install the new cooling fan. The electrical plug can only be inserted one direction, so there shouldn't be a concern that you have the plug installed correctly. Match the original orientation of the fan in the unit. Re-install the 2 screws for the fan, and then install the rear cover. There are 2 slots that the panel needs to slide into in the bottom. Finish the install by installing the 2 screws you removed in to hold the rear panel. Plug the range back in and heat to 450°F to validate the repair.

Removed the lower base pan of the oven by unscrewing two phillips head screws. I then had access to the old igniter and removed that by removing the mounting screws (2 Phillips head screws). Continuity test revealed an open circuit. I simply replaced the old part with the new part, reversed the process and the oven was ready for use in less than 10 minutes.