GTA18AL (P1184606WL) Caloric Refrigerator - Instructions

with a phillips screwdriver I removed the old handle and replaced it with the new one. Very easily done. The parts I ordered came when I was told they would. The whole experience was a "piece of cake".

Had wife remove all the food from the bottom of the refrigerator. Removed the glass shelf , two drawers and the frame that they all sit in. Removed old broken crisper rail and replaced it with the new one, after I installed the wheel that the drawer slides on. Put everything back in place then called wife to put food back in where she wanted it.

removed old and instaslled new. biggest problem was getting to one of the screws.

I unscrewed about 20 screws from the door, took out the inside, cleaned it first, then put the door gasket on, Screwed the door back in place.

Unplug fridge, unpluged fan motor from plug socket, removed bracket screws, removed fan retainer clip from shaft. removed screws holding fan to bracket

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Pull refrigerator out to access back, unplug unit and remove the 3 .25" screws cut the power leads to motor and install new with easy to understand instructions provided with new motor. Plug refrigerator back in and enjoy your cold beverages once more. EASIEST REPAIR EVER.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

removed upper freezer door, then removed refrig door,laid door on 2 saw horses, removed screws holding old gasket on,removed old gasket, installed new gasket as instructed by the on-line video,used an electric hair dryer to soften up gasket and work out the kinks,remounted he doors and i was done. door is back to sealing properly. the on-line video was very helpful

Put the support in

did not remove the doors. did freezer first ,removed inner door planel install gasget on panel and reinstalled. the aloney problem i had was trying to resape the door gasget on the big door. which is still a little out of shape hopeing it will fall in line over time.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

I did not remove the door from the fridge deciding to replace the gasket while the door was still attached. Next time I will follow their suggestion to remove the door and lay it down. I didn't realize that when you take the screws out (And there are A LOT of screws!) the whole panel comes off the door. It also took a long time to clean the door and panel with years of dirt/mildew to deal with. I had a hard time trying to get the kinks out with a hair dryer, didn't seem to work. Putting the new one on and screwing it back in place was pretty easy (would have been easier if it was laying flat). There are a couple of places where the seal is not perfect because of the kinks, but not going to worry about that.

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.