GSC25C6EYB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Unfortunately the replacement part did not work. The directions required that the older Gasket had to be removed before the new could be inserted. The original gasket was inserted into a groove on the door and also "glued" in some way to the door.

When an area on the side of the door was carefully pulled out it revealed that the new one was insufficient to replace the original.. It was substantially thinner and did not have the design that extended and went into the groove on the door. It needed to go in the slot of the same size and width. There was no such part and no way the new gasket would/could attach to the door.. There was no way to attach this new part. This meant that it wouldn't fit and successfully close the door.

Opening up the Evaporator Fan section was a quick and easy job. After opening, I checked and removed the fan and looked at the grommet. The grommet on the fan was tight and secure and I could no longer hear the noise. I closed the opening. Something I had done while checking the fan grommet must have solved the problem. I have not hear the noise again!

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

Got new part. Removed cover. Tape at top had to be pried loose from door.

Had to turn cup cover from top portion to access power wire. Door and light wires had to be unplugged and moved from clips.

Two screws at bottom removed. Motor unit was freed up and set on table.

Had to remove bottom white section due to light Assembly was not on new section. Removed three screws. Removed three screws from new unit.

Attached old white section with light to new motor unit.

Reattached power wire routed into cup and plugged in. Cup turned clockwise so as to attach.Other wires re-routed and plugged back in.

Cover section screws inserted and reattached.

Turned on/off button back on. Checked all light switches in refrigerator and freezer section to ensure operating. Put bin back in and closed door. No warning lights present. Approximately one hour later, bin had ice in it.

Unplug refrigerator.
Pry switch out with putty knife
Remove two wires from switch
Attach wires to new switch
Push new switch into slot

Pull the broken one out, push new one in!

I went onto YouTube to see how to properly replace the old gasket with a new one. The new gasket was softer and had a better upgraded seal design. Installation required me to CAREFULLY use the putty knife to push the gasket into the holding slot. This is also a better. more secure design. The corners of the hard plastic insert did need to be SLIGHTLY trimmed to eliminate some "over gap closeness". I did the work with food in the refrigerator. I suggest that you do an EXTENSIVE defrosting as ice will have probably built-up way beyond "normal" using the old gasket. I defrosted several days after installing the new gasket. I used a hair dryer, spent about a 1/2 hour from top to bottom and drained about 6-8 oz. of "Frost". I also only fill the fridge with food about 3/4 full. This provides proper air circulation and even cooling. I hope you found this helpful.

just followed the instruction on utube

Just follow youtube examples. Work in freezer. Troubles was I didn't fix the problem. Experts say thermostat is the best one to replace (53%). Anyway they are not always right.

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

Unscrewed Phillips screw from bottoms of ice container where the piece broke and installed new piece with old washers in place. Placed Phillips screw back in

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."