GC5THGXKB00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

The part received was a straight replacement part - no modification required, just a simple remove and replace. This made the job really easy. Used the socket set to lower the front wheels to move the refrigerator, the nutdriver to remove the back cover and the valve, and the adjustable wrench to remove the water line. I had to cut the supply line tubing because the ferrule was too far up the line to make a good seal (minor leak quickly corrected with parts available in the kit - nice touch!) What took the most time was cleaning the coils and lint, etc. - hey I hadn't moved the unit in years! - but I did not include the 45-60 minutes this took in the repair time. Directions supplied were clear and easy to follow - but in my case I could have done the job without them - easy to see what needed to be done, but the stated precautions were nice.

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

Removed catch tray and then removed two screws that are underneath. I left the control panel hanging from its wires, then removed the two screws from the control bracket.
A word of caution before next step: You need to remove the two micro switches on the left and right. While trying to remove one, it split apart and the pieces fell out. I was able to put it back together and it worked fine. So be careful with the micro switches.
Continue tranferring wires and switches to the new bracket and reassemble in the opposite order.
An easy repair.

The replacement valve was identical to the old one, so I didn't have to use any of the adapter parts sent with the new valve. This made the installation rather simple. After removing the back cover on the lower part of the refrigerator, I turned off the water and electrical supplies, and removed the water supply line to the valve. Then I removed the two screws securing the valve to the refrigerator. Next, I removed the two electrical connections from the valve, and unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the tubing to the valve. I didn't have to use a wrench to do this as they were hand tight, so when I attached the tubing to the new valve I tightened the nuts hand tight. This seemed to be sufficient and avoided the possibility of stripping the nuts. After checking for leaks, I attached the electrical connections and secured the new valve to the refrigerator. Then I attached the water supply line, but before replacing the back cover, I turned on the refrigerator, and let it cycle through it's first load of ice.

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly

Removed the screws that held the control breaket. Then I removed (2) micro switches, and for a cable tie, I slide the old control bracket out and installed the new one purchased from your store. 5 minutes worth of work. THAT IT!!! It was very, very, simple the repair

remove the front cover. everything else is a quick disconnect type of connection. Nothing to it! I would remove the cover and check these connections anytime the dispenser does not work. Look for broken or disconnected switches. This reapir took me a couple of minutes whereas the repair guy wanted almost 200 bucks to do this job. Parts ran around 30 with shipping.

First I removed the cover...and then I slid the new piece in. It looks great and so easy a caveman could do it...lol

At age 65 I have never attempted to repair a refrigerator, until now. It took longer than needed because I did not read these articles carefully. Please note that when you open the door and the light blinks twice, waits a second and blinks again, the optics are working fine. I ordered an emitter and receiver when I didn't need to. I sent it back, the money was refunded, and ordered the ice maker. I replaced the old icemaker by removing three screws and slipping it out of its holder.

Here is how I found out I needed the new ice maker. I took the supply line apart that runs down the back of the refrigerator. I blew through it without any trouble. This told me that the line was not frozen within the refrigerator. I put the supply line back together, and jumped the solenoid that was connected to the supply line at the bottom right of the refrigerator. My model is the side by side, so it has two solenoids. The solenoid that runs the water to the dispenser in the door was always running, so I knew if there was a problem it would be with the ice maker solenoid. So, how did I jump the solenoid. Kids, don't try this at home. I disconnected the wiring harness to the solenoid by pulling it straight out. Then I took the female end of an extension chord and placed a twelve two electrical wire with the ends stripped into the positive and negative slots. I then jumped the solenoid. Water ran to the ice maker, but there still wasn't any ice made. Since the optics and the solenoid were working it seemed to me that the ice maker wasn't doing it's part. There are easier ways to check the solenoid in this forum, but this worked for me. I saved a lot of money and the parts got here quickly.

Removed ice bin then pulled front cover with nut driver . Pull small rod from side ( one screw holding rod and spring). Pull auger out. Take plastic nut off end ( CLOCKWISE) LEFT HAND THREAD. Keep all ice crusher blades in order when you pull them off. Install new auger and reverse steps. web site has exploded view. It looks difficult but it isn't.

Turned the old filter to get it out, and insert the new filter. Make sure the O ring isn't dislodged.

I just slid the new pan in , partselect has the correct part all the time , I repalced my ice maker once and it took 15 min no problem

Remove old tray, replace with new tray.

Simple & easy.

Best part is I ordered on Monday & received on Tuesday!

Remove the unit cover by unsnapping from the bottom. Remove the face plate on the switches. The ice door simply snaps off the closing mechanism. The problem I have is that the original door included a heat trace element (keeps the back of the door warm to limit condensation). The new part was simply a new seal. I clipped the leads to the het trace (turn off the fridge before you do that) and put in the new door. When the heat ids on in the house there is no problem with condensation but on warmer days its pretty bad. I cannot find a replacement part with the heating element and have contacted Whirpool. THey haven't responded as of yet.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.