FRS20WRHW2 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair went easily after watching the video, took me less than an hour to complete the repair.

Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.

Followed the instructions provided in your video, took less than 15 minutes and works like new. Thank you for the parts and the advice.

Once we got the front piece off and washed it thoroughly it snapped onto the new piece readily. Perfect fit.

removed old fan and replaced it.3 screws and plug.Always unplug appliance when working on it.

1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker.
2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,.
3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket.
4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel.
5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.

Heard the snap of a short circuit followed by a burning smell around the refrigerator. Pulled it out, unplugged it and removed the back panel with a nut driver. Plugged it back in and when the compressor kicked on I saw sparks and some smoke at the relay. Unplugged and ordered new relay and the associated run capacitor in case it was also bad.
Removed the holding clip and the relay with capacitor easily came out with two wires attached. Removing the wires was done by prying with needle nose pliers with some difficulty.
Inserting the wires into the new relay was also difficult. If the position isn't just right it does not snap in. Once it is positioned correctly it makes a positive connection with not much effort.
Reassembled the capacitor, plugged unit into compressor, added retaining clip and plugged in refrigerator.
Compressor started up correctly. Note that as the refrigerator cools the compressor will shut off for long periods of time. This is normal.

I removed the two side mount screws with a screwdriver and disconnected the electrical plug to the ice maker to remove it. I reversed the process to install the new one.

It was the thermostat that was the problem, but I chose to replace the entire ice maker for only $25 more.

After disassembling, the thermal fuse I ordered were not and exact fit, I had to cut off the ring terminals, strip the insulation back and splice it in.
It works.

The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.

Removed ice bucket from freezer. Remove ice. Remove 2 phillips head screws from the inside front of ice bucket, and 2 fromt the bottom front to remove the front cover. Remove the E clip and washer from ice crusher shaft. Remove 4, 1/4” head screws from ice crusher housing. Unclip the selector shaft from crusher door paying attention to position.Slide housing off of shaft and discard. Install new housing over shaft and install the 4 screws. Install selector shaft into door. Install the E clip and washer onto shaft. Install front housing with the 4 screws previously removed. Refill bucket with ice and install bucket back into freezing taking care to orient the ice screw shaft into the cog in the back of the freezer as well as the door selection shaft. Test operation.

Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.

Loosen two screws, unplug power, lift it off, put new one on and make sure water chute is correct place, tighten screws!

From most posts I've read, the defrost timer was the culprit so I blindly ordered one. Easy install but did not fix the problem so I broke out the ohm meter. The only other 2 items it could be all tested good with my meter so I bypassed the defrost thermostat (per forum help...actually quite easy)and it defrosted fine, which told me I needed a new defrost thermostat. Installed fairly easy and problem gone.

Unscrewed (loosen) screws lifted unit out unplugged electrical connection. plugged in unit hung on screws tightened screws and had ice in less then 1 hour. Rick