ESS25LGMACC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I had to remove the contents of the freezer, and remove the fan covers ( 2 screws) and the back of the freezer. I pulled out the evap motor assembly, removed the motor from that and re-installed the new motor into the assembly, (2 screws). Installed the evap assembly back into the freezer, ( another 2 screws), making sure to plug the motor into the wire harness and keeping the wires away from the fan blades. Then installed the back of the freezer (2 screws...again) and put on the 2 plastic pieces that completes the freezer assembly. I plugged the refrigerator back in and heard the fan start and knew everything was going to work fine

Removed control panel, snapped out pretty easy. Removed flapper assembly (4 small screws). My spring was broke but it ended up being the solenoid assembly after I replaced the spring, door crank, micro switch and flapper it was obvious the solenoid was hanging up. I had to go back an order it but it was at my door 2nd day (quickly). I took the time to clean the area with Tylex (some mold), and everything went in easily. I didn't really need the new flapper, crank, and micro switch but they were fairly cheap and then all is new. We use our ice dispenser a great deal so I didn't want to have to go back in and fix a part I "should have" replaced. I used Part Select for my washer motor as well. Doing both repairs myself probably saved 3 or 4 hundred dollars easily.

The first component I suspect is the relay mounted near the compressor. I installed the replacement relay and still nothing. I then removed the control board, inspected it for burnt circuit paths or components. I noticed the c.b. relay for the compressor's lead had burned away the solder and there was no longer a viable connection. Not sure why this happened but my next step is to a) reestablish a solder connection. If this fails then b) replace the control board.

went online to an appliance repair site and found out that this model has problems with the damper malfunctioning. went to partselect and ordered what I needed and it arrived in two days. to replace the damper you just remove the light at the top of the frige and the cover around it . the damper assembly only has 2 screws and is easy to remove.

First I removed the two screws that hold the tank in place. I then pulled the tank out about 3 inches and cut the water tubes to tank. Replaced new tank using 5/16 quick connects for water tubes.

I had lost the provided bypass filter plug. I decided to replace it with your part.

I determined that the icemaker was not getting any water to the unit. The icemaker was still cycling but was not filling with water. I assumed the water valve was malfunctioning so I looked up the schematic drawing on the site and ordered the Water Valve & Bracket Assembly. It arrived within days. It took less than 10 minutes to install with miniumal effort. Within minutes the water could be heard flowing into the unit. Within an hour we had ice again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I removed the ice bin, removed the metal rod off the bottom, unscrewed all screws holding things together and then carefully pried the crusher assembly out of the ice bin. I made the mistake of doing it when the bin was still frozen and ended up cracking it where the "clips" from the crusher are inserted. It was much easier after the bin warmed up.

Replaced and put everything back together.

Remove the two nuts holding the top of the unit to the side of the freezer using a 1/4 in nutdriver. Pull the unit out and unplug it from the back of the freezer. Remove all pieces of the broken stripper. The replacement part fits onto a peg on the back of the icemaker and into a slot. Bend into place and slide into position.

I was able to order the correct parts . Needed my son in law (who in an engineer) to put it together. It was sort of a challenge forhim too. W the persons that I spoke to were very helpful and very nice and the parts came quickly. Thank heavens for the internet. The part that was broken was inside the freezer part of my frig.

bought an push in, in line connector and a new 5/16 plastic hose. I just replaces 2 feet of plastic hose from the selonid up an splices the hose using the connector. Worked perfect.

First I removed the screws, and the covering at the bottom rear of the GE Fridge. I then removed the existing water valve which was the source of water leak, it was all corroded with the leak at the valve joints, so I knew the water valve needed to be replaced. The water valve I received from PartSelect fitted in perfectly, once I had removed the old valve. All I needed was couple of screw drivers for the replacement. I would like to thank PartSelect for making this easy and saving me lots of money & time by not going for outside professional help.

Initial diagnosis indicated faulty cold air damper, so first action was to remove the light assembly and then the plastic housing that contains the FF fan and damper. The two hidden screws at base of housing required removal of lower decorative plastic duct that turned to be held by snap in-tabs at top and slide away fastener at bottom. The damper housing is held to the roof of the FF chamber by two screws that were taken out to remove the light assembly.

When the plastic housing is pulled towards the front of the refrigerator, the multi-pin wire connector can be disconnected and the damper assembly easily removed.

Installation required need of a thin plate to seat a sponge rubber seal without damage, so I used a thin metal kitchen spatula. Nothing unexpected was encountered in reversing the disassembly process.

Although the new damper corrected the excessive cold situation, the temperature max-min span remained in excess of 15 degrees F, so the control panel was swapped in the small covered cavity located in the outside back of the refrigerator. A 1/4" nut driver and needle nose pliers were all the tools necessary for this operation.

Together the two replacement components have solved the frozen food problem and the over night max-min FF span is now 5 degrees or less.

I did it the way you recommended except rather than removing the existing tube from the water valve at the bottom of the fridge I cut the existing and new tubes and then spliced the new tube to the old tube. I already had the splicer nut so it was quicker and easier. By the way, shipping was very quick and you prices and your website are excellent!

Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved