EMO4000JSS01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Placed the screws in the proper areas, used the screw driver to tighten down and I was in business with light to spare. I am happy to have found the proper screws.
Thank you.

GE microwave displayed the message that Charcoil Filter needs to be changed. I disconnected the unit and removed the top two screws then removed the top panel by sliding it gently to the left. Replaced the filter. And positioned it in the same way the old filter was installed. Replaced the top panel and screws, Connected the unit back and used the Menu option to reset the Charcoil Filter warning option.

Odered replacement

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

Turned the power to the unit off. Removed seven- (7) small screws from the base plate, not removing the rear screws. The plate dropped a few inches allowing me to get to the light socket. I removed one- (1) screw that allowed the socket to be removed. I then detached the two- (2) electrical leads. I now installed the new socket, replacing the leads and the screw along with a new bulb. I pushed the bottom plate back into the up position and replaced the seven- (7) screws. Turned the power back on and we were good to go.

.Thank You Dan

It was very easy to remove the old charcoal filter and insert the new charcoal filter(had done it before with with the replacement filter GE had included with the purchase).

Small sized phillips screw driver was required. Once gaining access to the new motor the part(s) replacement was simple.

Remove two screws on the top of the grill. Slide the grill to the left and then pull straight off. Slide the filter in place. Replace grill and screws

I followed the directions on your web site. I removed the screws adn dropped the bottom tray, unplugged the drive motor, removed two screw, and replaced with the new motor. It only took about 15 minutes.

Wow! It really was as easy as everyone says. I ordered the part. It came overnight. I took out the 6 screws on the bottom of the microwave (AFTER unplugging the microwave of course), unscrewed the part and unplugged it, put in the new motor, plugged it in and screwed it in, and replaced the bottom screws. The only trouble I had, which really has nothing to do with this part or the repair, was that some of the screws on the bottom of the microwave were very difficult to replace as they didn't seem to line up with the holes beneath. I had a handyman coming to do some deck repairs and had him put those in. Ah well. I did MOST of it myself.

Stephanie, age 52

Removed the 6 screws that held the cover below my microwave. Unplugged the part, plugged in the new one and I was done. My part arrived from you just one day after I ordered it! It was my first microwave repair ever, and it couldn't have been easier.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

The halogen light bulb took a little skill. The prongs were a little difficult to maneuver into place.