DISR333FCFWW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

On my GE Dryer the lint filter is located inside the door at the bottom. The filter can just be pulled out by hand & a new one pushed into place

good replacement procedure on you tube.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

Replaced new screen in place of old one.

The part came today…and I installed it in 10 minutes. The only time consuming part was locating a torx screwdriver which was needed to remove the panel.
Lifted the panel, extracted the existing switch and
disconnected the wires and used a flathhead screwdriver to lift off the existing switch. Reconnected the new piece, and voila my dryer worked!
Your site is great!

It's no surprise that GE would use cheaply made parts in such a mass produced product, but it was irritating to see the start switch fail just fourteen months after purchasing the dryer. I am glad that a little thought was put into an easy snap and twist installation of the control panel switches. The original switch failed, due to arcing and pitting of the contact points no doubt, and the local parts house didn't even recognize the part, let alone have it in stock. Thanks to PartSelect.com I could have the part in just a couple of days!
The panel comes appart with just four star driver screws on top, but an allen wrench will work also. Wire jumpers with spade connectors are pulled apart and reattached with needle nose pliers.
In the mean time to keep the dryer operational, I did some creative "re-assigning" of some of the control panel jumper wires using the switch that controled the "Wrinkle Care" setting as a temporary Start Switch as it had the same current handling limits. By the way before attempting such a temporary bypass setup, consider not voiding any warrantee arrangement still applying to the product and have some basic electronics and safety knowledge, study the provided schematic well attached to the back panel and remember to write down all of the original wire connections. And when in doubt, calling a qualified GE appliance repair person is your best and safest bet.
New part went right in in about 15 minutes with original wiring restored and double-checked and the dryer is running right on que again.
Thanks PartSelect.com!

Remove top control panel, disconnected wire from old switch to new switch (remover 1 wire at time so it would not get mixed up)twisted old switch out inserted new switch and replaced control panel now works like it should. I thought it might would be a safety issue is why I replaced it

Took the dryer apart to get to the rear bearing. Took the bearing assembly out, kept the e-ring from the old bearing shaft, replaced the bearing kit, took the o-ring off the new shaft and replaced it with the e-ring, then reassembled the unit. Make sure to place a nail or long screw into into the rear of the drum, so that you can realign bearing on the drum. It is easier with two people when reassembling.

My daughter, who has the dryer in Florida, made the repair herself. She removed the broken handle that had been temporarily taped in place. Cleaned off tape residue with Goo-Gone. Then took the new handle and snapped it into place. Worked just like it was supposed to.

After unplugging the dryer, I removed 2 metal screws up under the dryer sill rim, and removed the dryer top. Then, removed two more at the top of the front (door) section to remove it.

I wasn't careful enough when removing the door, and the wiring connectors popped loose from their connections. No harm done, though. Disconnect the wires once you remove the front panel.

I had to loosen the bottom metal screws on one side panel to have enough give to pull the dryer drum out.

The only way to replace the belt is to bend over the side of this unit and with one hand put the belt around the motor drive shaft, pull the tension pulley back, and put the belt on the wheel.

The hard part is working the drum back into place while VERY carefully slipping the belt into the drum goove. Many attempts were made only to have the belt slip off of the tension pulley or motor driveshaft. Be care full to turn the drum clock wise if the belt twists while working it into the drum groove. It was very disappointing to finally get the belt on, and work the drum back into place only to discover I had twisted the belt with the smooth side making contact on the driveshaft. Thus, I started over.

Aiming the drum into the back of the dryer is a tough task. I recommend a 1" X 4 " X 12" board to slip under the drum when beginning this process to help stablize, and guide the drum. It helped me tremendously, and was easy to remove out from under the drum once everything was back in place.

Use gloves. Yes, tough to work with in small places, and I did take them off to replace the belt around the tension pulley, however, there are too many sharp edges on the metal body of the dryer and especially the drum to do so without gloves.

Wires were easy to reattach and reassembly was smooth except for the top...check out the tabs, and spring tabs before you try and just plop the top back on. It goes a certain way...You'll know what i am talking about when you do this task.

I truly hope you have L O N G arms to do this task, and that the new belt lasts a long, long time!

removed top, 2 hex screws, removed front 2 hex screws & 2 star screws. removed belt, slid drum out. Removed old bearing and replaced with new bearing kit. assembled in reverse.
It would help to have another person assist you.

Replaced the rear drum bearing. Not doing it before ,it took about 1 1/2 hrs. Problem was fixed.

I pulled the old handle off and pushed the new one on.
No problem at all.

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.