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CFCP1ZIYASS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

All Instructions for the CFCP1ZIYASS
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noisy evaporator fan motor
Replaced evaporator fan motor, and this solved the whistling noise that had developed. Reviewed and followed the removal and installation instruction video as closely as possible. This was very helpful, with a few additions. For the model PS123NGPBBB GE refrigerator/freezer, there were a few differences from the video. There a was an additional cover panel that was positioned vertically at the back of the freezer compartment below the auger motor assembly. It was necessary to remove this cover (4 screws) to gain access to the auger motor cover screws. The unit also has a different light configuration with 2 lights. I found it helpful to remove these light bulbs and the corresponding light fixtures in order to remove the evaporator motor assembly. As mentioned in the video, it was necessary to cut the 4 wires from the wire harness of the new motor, and use butt end connectors to reattach these wires to the corresponding wires in the unit. Total job took between 1 and 2 hours, and the motor change solved the noise problem.
Parts Used:
Evaporator Fan Motor
  • Russell from GLEN, NH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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End that holds clear cover snapped off,
Remove glass, lift cover up in front, slide out, transfer parts seals and switch for crisper(one pivot screw. Remove rear seal by using finger nail to pull at gasket slowly pulling it back. Take your time. Reinstall cover and glass, snap pivoting cover back on.
Parts Used:
Crisper Pan Cover Frame
  • Paula from WESTON, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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both freezer and refigerator were warm.
I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Harry from DURYEA, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Light would no longer turn on
I watched the video online, followed the instructions and within minutes had the part installed. The frig light was working once again! I will say the original switch was very snug and I had to do some very minor scraping of the plastic to get the new part to slide in.
Parts Used:
Light Switch
  • paypal_shipping_address from Ripon, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers
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Dairy door broke off when spouse was unable to shut it due to box of butter inhibiting the door from closing
Removed the entire dairy shelf from door and installed the dairy door and replaced the entire dairy compartment on door
Parts Used:
DOOR DAIRY CLEAR
  • CATHLEEN from Agoura Hills, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Light out
Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.
Parts Used:
Light Switch
  • Jodi from Benton Harbor, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Squeky Evaporator Fan
I made my wife fix it.
Parts Used:
Evaporator Fan Grommet - Grey
  • Douglas from LAFAYETTE, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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No water to icemaker.
Checked water inlet tube inside freezer, stuck screwdriver in it to see if there was any ice and it seemed clear. Checked water pressure to fill valve, good pressure. Replaced fill valve, still no water to ice maker. Replaced Ice Maker. Still no water to Ice Maker. Removed freezer back panel, hit fill tube with heat gun after allowing freezer to defrost awhile, replaced back panel, ice maker. Water going to icemaker fine. Problem was that the fill tube was frozen up way at the back where the water line emptys into the icemaker fill tube. Old icemaker and fill valve were probably OK. No real way to check it from outside the case in the rear of the fridge as the water line is sealed on the fill tube and heating it without removing the rear freezer panel does not get back far enough to melt the ice.
Parts Used:
Icemaker Water Inlet Valve
  • Richard from KANSAS CITY, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Refrigerator ice cube maker stopped making ice cubes
I replaced the water line and the inlet water valve
Parts Used:
Icemaker Water Inlet Valve
  • JAMES from MATTESON, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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The light inside the oven had burned out
0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.
Parts Used:
Light Bulb - 40W
  • Catherine from SEATTLE, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Replace water filter with bypass plug - filter is redundant with home osmosis system
If you have a reverse osmosis system for filtered water system in your home that also feeds the refrigerator, using another water filter in the refrigerator is redundant, so GE makes a Water filter Bypass Cap that allows you to run using the already filtered water without needing to expensive water filter. FIRST - using a phillips screw driver remove the toe kick plate at the bottom front of the refrigerator - two screws - one on each side of the plate that extends the entire width of the refrigerator. SECOND - Locate the water line (should be right in front) and the valve to turn off the water. Turn valve clockwise (right) until completely closed. Then test by attempting to fill a glass with water using the dispenser on the door. If any water continues to come out, continue turning the valve (without forcing it) clockwise until it has been turned as much as possible. If water still comes from dispenser, locate the source of the water line - most likely from under the kitchen sink. There should be another valve under the sink, or simply turn off (turn the cold water valve clockwise) until water cold water completely turned off. Test again as required. THIRD - clear the top right hand back shelf directly under the water filter screwed into the ceiling of the refrigerator in the rear top right side of the refrigerator. Place a small towel under the water filter, and slowly turn the filter 1/4 turn clockwise without using force. Continue turning until the full 1/4 turn is complete and the filter will drop down without pulling. Place the old filter upside down in the sink, thereby allowing the filter to drain any water present in the filter. FOURTH - remove the filter plug from package, notice notches in top of plug that align with gaps in the area where a filter would typically be screwed into the filter location in the ceiling above the top right shelf in the refrigerator. After aligning notches in the bypass plug with gaps in the screw mechanism, carefully turn the bypass plug 1/4 turn counter- clockwise - at which time the bypass plug should be firmly installed. FIFTH - Reverse step SECOND, and turn valve Counter-Clockwise until valve is completely open. Test to ensure no water is leaking from the Bypass Plug. SIXTH - Finally reverse step FIRST by reattaching the toe kick plate using the two phillips screws removed in Step FIRST. NOTE: The Bypass Plug is quite inexpensive, but after adding shipping from Canada - the cost is about the same as purchasing a new filter for the refrigerator. :-(
Parts Used:
MWF BYPASS
  • Fred from LA QUINTA, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Refrigerator not defrosting, ice tray clogging up in ice tray, refrigerator making loud humming noise, and compressed running all the time.
First, turn off power - since I did not want to pull the refrigerator out on my wood floor I tripped the circuit breaker to that circuit and opened door to make sure interior light was off (ensuring power was off). This unit has a bottom freezer, I took out all shelves, ice maker and all parts in the way of accessing back of interior of freezer section. Removed back plastic section by removing one screw in middle top of back panel and prying it out. This was a bit difficult as it was in there a bit tight but once the plastic warmed up it pulled out ok. This revealed the compressor section and temp sensor that was attached to the copper coils with of all things - a zip tie! In pictures of this that I looked at on various web sites the sensor was on a metal bracket attached to the coil so it made me wonder if tf the factory took a shortcut? I cut the old sensor wire, stripped the two wires 1/2", and connected them to the new sensor wire with butt connectors, I put some silicone into the ends of the butt connectors to prevent moisture from entering into connectors and wrapped the connection in black electrical tape. I then "attached" the sensor to the coil using a zip tie, put the plastic back piece back on, inserted everything I took out and put power back to refrigerator. It's been 3 days and temp of refrigerator is stable, ice maker not clogging up, and compressor not running all the time! So far so good.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Mark from ROSEMOUNT, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Auto water stopped working, found that filter needed replacement
Unscrewed old cartridge, ordered new cartridge, installed new cartridge by following very simple instructions. Took only one day for part to arrive from PartSelect although I paid for cheapest shipping, which was "ground." I was amazed!
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter
  • Joanne from Fort Smith, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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brand new ge refrigerator delivered with broken access cover. cost 6.95 so i repaced it myself.
removed 6 screws and repaced cover.
Parts Used:
ACCESS COVER
  • Gerald from Shelton, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Yearly replacement of filter
Moved stuff out of my way on the top shelf, reached in and turned old filter to remove. Filled new filter with water, lined up and turned to lock in place. Whew, never thought I would get that job done. :-)
Parts Used:
Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter
  • Robert from Myrtle Beach, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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All Instructions for the CFCP1ZIYASS
76 - 90 of 229