CEM2763BQ0 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

After removing front door panel (2 screws) I removed the old latch catch and replace with the new part. 4 minutes later, the door was back together, the dryer was running and the door was staying closed.

There was no heat but the dryer would operate properly in all other functions. I checked the ignitor (gas dryer) with a meter and it was okay. I traced the circut back and ended up at the thermal fuse and it was "open" I jumped it out and the dryer started to work. I knew the problem was the thermal fuse but more importantly why did it blow. Further investigation showed excessive lint in the duct. Needed to take the exhaust system apart and clean out the lint. also replaced the flexible dryer (too difficult to clean) and to make sure that I didn't over work the high/low thermostat and would be doing this repair again in the near future I replaced that also. Be careful and do not jump out the fuse and use the dryer as this will cause a fire. I did it to prove the problem only... Dryer works well again and we will probably get another 5 years out of it!

Al
hrguy@comcast.net

It took me 5 minutes to find PartSelect's site, read the comments about the most common problems and identify the solution. The exploded views were a great assist, as it wasn't obvious where the thermal fuse is located or which access panel to remove.

It took less than 5 minutes to remove the rear panel and install a temporary jumper to verify the blown fuse was the only issue. With the new fuse in hand, replair took another 5 minutes.

A word of caution to anyone replacing is fuse - I found that the exhaust vent pipe to the wall was full of lint and nearly blocked. This is a potential fire hazard. While enough air was passing through the flapper vent to make it look like it was OK, the exhaust resistance is what caused the overheating and made the fuse blow.

I spent more time cleaning out the vent pipe than replacing the fuse, for a total of 25 minutes. I strongly urge all dryer owners to physically inspect the exhaust duct annually.

PS Drying time has decreased by 30-40% since the repair.

The major issue was getting the dryer out and cleaning it all up. That's what took the time but it was worth it to clean out the lint in the ducts, etc.. Putting the thermal fuse was a snap thanks to the great feedback received when I got this web site and read the previous responses.

took the cstch reciever out, with my fingers, pushed the new one in, snap lock fit.......couldn't be better, like repairing a model T ford.......

the part fit perfectly, it just snaped right into place.

I opened the front lower cover to get the schematics. Looked for the most probable part that was bad. Then traced wiring from the gas solenoid to find the thermal fuse.
I opened the back. Took the two wires off the thermal fuse and put my Ohm meter from terminal to terminal. As I got no reading, I ordered a new fuse. It took about 5 minutes to replace and button the dryer back up. This is the second time I have had to replace this fuse.

Got my parts very quickly.
Popped out the old door latch with a screw driver and pressed in the new one.
Very simple.
Thanks Parts Select.

First I pulled the dryer away from the wall, after which I disconnected the power and dryer vent. I then removed the eight screws holding on the back of the dryer. Next, I disconnected the two wires to the part and unscrewed the mounting screw. I then removed the bad part, replaced it with the new part, and reversed the above steps.

An online help site lead me to believe the problem was the gas igniter. After ordering that and installing it I discovered that wasn't the problem. I took a look at the schematic which is in the electrical compartment and found that there is more than one thermal breaker. I found the other one, ordered and installed the part and had it running within 30 minutes. I had to access the back of the unit, remove the back cover with a socket wrench, unscrew the thermal breaker and re-install the new one with no special tools.

I replaced the male end first hoping that a change in the female part would not be needed. Unfortunately no. I used needle nosed pliers to pry the male part out and pushed the new part in. The female part of the door catch was more difficult. I didn't do it in "textbook" form, but got the job done with pliers and a screwdriver. Worth every penny to fix correctly instead of rigging it. Do it!

Took back panel off dryer, unscrewed old part, put on new one. Easy fix. Dryer works great again.

How I did the repair is of little importance. What is important and impressive is the level of service your company provides. You must have a fantastic system in place and a team who has bought into the concept of providing the best customer service possible. I have been a Manager for over 15 years and would go home proud and would sleep well every night if my team offered the service your team does. Please share this feedback with them and take the time to shake the hand of everyone who was in the chain of service of this order. Smile and tell them Russell C says well done and thank you. Your team made my life easier and I feel appreciated as a customer of your Company.

I studied the wiring diagram on the back of the dryer. I diagnosed a bad thermal fuse (no continuity). Found the part online at Part Select. The part came a few days later and I was back in business. Great Service.

The only thing I had to do was hammer the catch inside the square fitting and presto it was done. It took me less than 3 mins. I thought I might of needed instructions, but it was really simple. Even a guy can do it. (smile)