7MWET4027HW0 Whirlpool Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Removed the liquid softener cartridge.
Removed the plastic seal inside the upper agitator using a pliers.
Removed the bolt holding the agitator in place using a 7/16 socket wrench with a 6 inch extension.
Lifted the agitator out.
Separated the upper and lower agitator into two pieces.
Replaced the cam assembly inside the upper agitator.
Reversed the whole process.

I removed the softener cup, unscrewed the bolt and replaced the cam kit. Super easy just like everyone else said. Parts were here very quickly and at a great price!

Unplugged from power, unhooked water lines.Then removed back cover and control panel and top set to the side. Rear rods very easy to do by yourself after those where done have help and tip it backwards and change out the front 2 then reassembled and hooked back up and tested. Everything worked like brand new !!!

Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.

The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.

I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F

I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!

Take out 2 philips screws in lint trap holder on top. Use flat screwdriver to pry up front left and right of dryer top near outside edges and tilt up out of the way. Remove 2 push-on AC connectors on door switch and remove plastic clip holding wires to dryer's front top metal edge. Remove (2) 5/16" sheet metal screw on inside top left and right edges to free up front panel. Lift front panel about an inch and it'll then pull off. It helps to have a second person to help hold or remove the drum at this point. It took 3 times for me to guess right on the squeak. First time I replaced the belt, second time I replaced these rollers, third and final time I replaced the idler pulley, the shaft of which had worn completely off so clearly i can't figure out how we didn't see (or hear) it the first two times! Dri-Slide lube helped stop the squeaking the first two times, but it always returned until this time, now I have a thoroughly rebuilt dryer for the next generation! (PS vacuum out the bottom of the dryer while it's open to remove both lint and greasy roller shavings - do this FIRST and you'll have cleaner hands & clothes!)

I removed the back panel and tested the Thermal Fuse, the Thermostat and the Heating Element with a meter. The Thermal Fuse gave a bad reading. I proceeded to clean the dryer and lint pipe of all lent. I installed the new Thermal Fuse and put the back panel back on the dryer. The dryer worked for two loads of clothes and the Thermal Fuse blow again. I'm now at the end of my rope. I don't know what else to check and I can't continue to buy parts for only two loads. I guess I will have to invest in a new dryer.

Much like the other descriptions. I found the video helpful and this was the only vendor that had diagrams, so you could see how things went back together. When I popped off the top piece, everything went flying, as someone else mentioned, so the diagram was essential.

I bought the cog kit. Nice directions on how to assemble but their were no instruction on how to disassemble the agitator. I wound up replacing the whole agitator for $60 vs $6 for the parts I needed. The agitator had only one nut (which you had to take off to get at the cog assembly anyway. The agitator is the way to go. The cogs are halfway down the top part of agitator with no way the get them out without a special tool or ruining the bottom part of the agitator as the clips are part of the bottom piece. If you need special tools they should be listed. If you need to be a trained technician that should also be stated. To give you parts in the middle of an assembly with no instruction on how to put them in the assembly is plain wrong.

Watch video on the site and the insulation will be easy and take about 30 min.

Removed the old hoses and screwed on the new hoses.

1. Removed the fabric softener dispenser

2. Removed Barrier Seal Cover

3. Removed bolt and seal

4. Removed and replaced CAM Agitator Assembly

5. Reversed the removal steps.

My husband just took the bolt in the middle took the broken one, put the new one, put the bolt back the lid the rubber seal and done. Working like new.
Basically we did what everyone else did with this part, it help me realize I did not need to call a repairman for this, I knew hubby would be able to do this.