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62946975 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 62946975
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replaced grease filter
took out old one and after straightening out the significant bends in the metal frame holding the screen, that were caused by shipping the screen in too flimsy of a container, I installed this into the range.
Parts Used:
Grease Filter Light Bulb - 40W
  • Gregory from CARMEL, IN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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filter was deteriorated from 15 plus years of use
lifted the top center panel off removed old filter installed new easy peesy
Parts Used:
Grease Filter
  • Steve from Marshall, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Grease filter clogged and in need of replacement
EXTREMELY simple - drop in. AND- the part cost less than half the price quoted by appliance vendor...2 years earlier !!! This site is a marvelous resource for parts one can install with minimal skill.
Parts Used:
Grease Filter
  • Mark from STAUNTON, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Old one was plugged
Pulled out old one and slipped in the new one.
Parts Used:
Grease Filter
  • Rudy from GARIBALDI, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Oven would not hold temperature, not turn on, and would shut off during use.
Extremely simple repair to make. Move stove away from wall and disconnect power. Remove the oven racks. Remove the rear sheet metal panel covering the wiring harnesses. Caution: Sharp edges and corners on sheet metal.Sensor is located in upper left corner on rear oven wall. Using a long-shafted #2 Philips screwdriver, remove the two Philips head screws and gently pull the sensor 1" away from the oven wall. At this point, it will help to have an assist from someone while you are behind the range. Have the assistant gently tug on the sensor while you watch for wires moving on the rear of the range. After locating the sensor wires, gently disconnect the plastic connector clip. Note: plastic connectors become brittle with age and exposure to heat Move to front of range and gently remove sensor from rear wall by pulling the wiring through the oven wall. Before inserting the new sensor wire through the oven wall, "dry fit" the wiring connectors to see that the new sensor is a correct connection. Make connection, and secure the sensor to the rear oven wall with the two screws. Install racks, reinstall rear sheet metal panel, and connect the power. Set the oven baking temperature to a moderately low temp, 300 - 350 deg. to test the new sensor.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • John from Arvada, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Maytag range had "F3" code display, oven would not work.
Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • phillip from Farmington, NM
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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F5 fault code kept appearing
I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Louis Rodriguez from Granbury, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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wire came loose and shorted out
Ordering the part online was easy. It arrived in a timely manner. I found a terrific video online showing how to install the terminal. It was so easy. Thank you for the great instructional video.
Parts Used:
Main Power Terminal Block
  • Elizabeth from HOUSTON, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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After doing an oven self clean cycle, oven temp couldnt be set correctly, heat element was warm,not hot
After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Philip from Winter Haven, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Oven would not heat
Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Ralph from Nicholasville, KY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Top oven element works, but bottom element works only intermittently
Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Bruce from Glencoe, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.
Parts Used:
Main Power Terminal Block
  • Frank from Palm Coast, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Oven Over Heating
Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.
Parts Used:
Long Oven Sensor
  • Steve from New Albany, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Burner would not turn off
It was easy enough I unplugged the stove. removed the screws under the control panel,removed the panel, removed the two screws holding the switch in place. moved the electrical wires from the old switch and placed them on the new switch. put it all back together in the reverse order.
it took greater than 15 minutes as this is the first time I did any work on my stove and wanted to be careful and not dismantle too much or scratch anything.
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 240V
  • Randall from Colorado Springs, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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burned burner control out of warranty
switch power supply off at breaker panel

unscrew control box assembly from stove

slide control out of stove

unscrew burner control out of assembly

transfer wiring from old control to new in same relative location

reassemble in reverse order

restore power

test burner in all positions
Parts Used:
Surface Burner Switch - 240V
  • Daniel from Temple, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the 62946975
106 - 120 of 270