57131T4WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

a) remove front panel by depressing the 2 clips at the top in line with the lid b) remove the lid switch and 2 screws holding top on and remove top by tilting up SLIGHTLY and sliding to left. c) Remove agitator and by pulling straight up on it and remove adapter underneath d)remove 4 bolts holding 4 rubber straps to top of tub assembly, readily visible when top is removed. e) unplug motor wiring and disconnect pump and bleach hoses from tub f)while lifting up on tub, push down on each of the 4 suspension rods and disconnect them at bottom of tub ( this is the most difficult part, and to make it easier disconnect the rear rods first) g) tilt tub forward and remove tub assembly h) NOW, for the big nut that holds the spin basket in-- #1, it is LEFT HAND THREAD, so you will turn it to the right to remove it. #2, it is VERY TIGHT and requires a 1&11/16" spanner wrench (which I did not have) for removal. Instead, I used a 1&11/16 socket, an extension and an air impact wrench to remove and replace the nut. Assembly is reverse of removal and remember, that nut is ALUMINUM so be careful with that impact wrench when tightening it back up!I replaced the nut and split ring and cleaned the whole area thoroughly, and it greatly reduced the noise in spin mode. I did not replace the metal housing on the bottom of the spin basket, because it was $50 bucks. this probably would have eliminated all the noise, but my repair only cost $19 in parts, including shipping ,and the parts arrived in 1 day.

Remove agitator. Remove coupling. Reinstall new coupling. Reinstall agitator. My only problem was the 7 day delay in getting the part. I expected 2-day delivery.

Pretty much the entire machine has to come apart to replace a transmission. The thing to know that no one mentioned is that the hub nut is reverse threaded - that means righty loosey.
Even if I had known, I tried it both ways and I doubt I could have gotten it off without the chisel as the others also had to do. Split ring was also frozen in place by hard water and soap scum so had to break that cheesey piece of aluminum off also. If you are taking apart your washer, I advise ordering these 2 parts so you will have them after you destroy the old ones trying to get to the part you need to fix.

Thanks to parts select for the exploded diagram!

First, remove the old water pump by disconnecting the respective hose, then wipe the area where the pump was, and proceeded to connect the new water pump, of course I did all this with the machine disconnected from the power electric, then proceeded to connect the inlet hoses of hot water and cold water, electricity connected to the machine and did a test with clothes in the washing machine. and now everything is going well, thanks for your valuable help.
sincerely, a satisfied customer

First I disconnect the power and then I pull the front cover and replace the water pump, drain hose, and the inlet hose this was fixed and straight easy job.My second problem was the overfill problem witch I took the knobs cover and I replace the water level switch.This job was also easy but did not fix my problem.

Our GE washer stopped agitating. We bought us a Whirlpool Cabrio washer with auto-sensing and an impeller instead of an agitator. My wife couldn't get used to washing clothes with so little water. We found out about PartSelect.com and ordered the part they indicated would probably fix our GE washer ($5.86) - the Agitator Coupling Kit. Ordered it on Friday, received it by Fed Ex the following Tuesday. It was an easy installation. Our GE is working fine. Took the Whirlpool back to the store, got our $637.00 back.I plan to use PartSelect.com again,if I need to. We don't like the new type washers as well as our 7-1/2 year old GE.

I removed agitator by pulling it up until it unsnaped.

I removed the old agitator coupling by removing the bolt and pulling up while twisting it.

The new coupling looks different than the old part but fits the same.

I pressed the new coupler on to the agitator shaft, reinstalled bolt and pressed agitator on the agitator coupler until it snaped into place.

Washer runs like new!

This was my daughter's washing machine. I looked at the back of the machine to see if there was an opening to get to the parts. Since the back is all closed up. I knew the front had to come off. I pride up, and I pride out, and finally the front popped off. After taking the front cover off the washer. I could see the belt was all chewed up. We ordered a new belt from partselect and got it a day early. I tried to pry the belt on without loosening up anything. I couldn't get it. So I loosened the four bolts on the motor mount and slid the motor backwards towards the other pulley. I put the belt on both pulleys and pried the motor forward to tightened the belt up. Then tightened all four bolts. Put the front guard back on and tried the washer to see if we had any other problems.

I removed the front panel, disconect the Level Pressure Switch and conect the new one, the only thing that took me most of the tima was calibrate the instrument.
whene you disconct the hose that goes in th side of the L P S. to replace it for the new one you have to be care full. FIrst install the new part, then before you conect the hose let the machine fill up with water up to the firt level ( small load), to do this,calculate the water amount, then blow the hose to leave the hose free off air to create, a vacume then install it on the original position.

Just took the dail off and put the knob on and slid the clip on. It was harder to take the glue off that we put on the knob!!

First I located the trouble. I noticed that it was water leaking and figured it had to be a hose. I took the front panel off of the washer and after noticing that the drain hose had a slight hole in it, realized that I could fix it and save myself a repair call. I undid the two hose clamps and removed the hose. I went to a local repair shop that could not guarantee the right part. I went online and found Parts Select.com. I entered minimal information and the picture of the item that I was looking for, the Drain Inlet Hose, was staring at me! Within 3 business days and less than 20 dollars spent, I repaired my washing machine. The total time spent to repair after I received the hose took about 10 minutes. I will definitely use parts select .com and recommend to all my friends and family. Thank you.

Problem was intermittent. It would happen once a month or so. Eventually I set next to the machine and kept turning it On and OFF through cycles for about a half an hour until it failed and I was able to confirm that problem was with the water valve.

Buying and replacing the water valve was easy.

WARNING: UNPLUG THE WASHING MACHINE FROM THE WALL BEFORE ATEMPTING ANY ELECTRICAL WORK ON YOUR WASHING MACHINE!

It was really easy. I removed the broken part of the knob from the metal center knob assembly. Cleaned out the "teeth" of the inner knob assembly to remove any debris from the plastic part that broke. I made sure that the metal center knob assembly was pulled out all the way (using the pliers). I inserted the new knob making sure that the knob lined up with the arrow on the dial. Then turned it slightly to ensure that the "teeth" fit together properly. While holding the handle in place, I used the pliers to slide the clip into the slot to keep the knob in place. Once it clicked into place... I was DONE!

Removed the back of the machine and then flipped the machine on the side and loosened the motor to get the old belt off. A piece came out so we had to check the schematics online to figure out where it went. We believe it was the out-of-balance cut off switch. So to fix that we unplugged the motor assembly and took it out. I also had to fish the spring out of the vacuum, no small task. The worst part was that the belt was so deteriorated that it was super greasy and the carpet ended up a mess. We replaced the motor and belt and now it actually gets the water out of the clothes. Simply Green cleaner was used for the rug and after some strong elbow grease it was cleaned. If not for the mess and the other part and the vacuum snafu, I would have labeled this as easy.

Unplug machine, verified the hot water line to the washer was clear. Used screwdriver to remove top panel from washer. Removed faulty (rusted) temperature switch from seating. Then removed each of the wires from the old switch with needlenose pliers and placed them on the proper area of the new switch. Placed the switch back on the panel and screwed the cover back on. Then plugged the unit back in an tested the hot, cold and warm settings. Easy fix.