4ET18GKXWW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Reviewed Youtube video as a reference. Unplugged refrigerator. Removed old defrost timer. Matched the color of the wiring harness to the diagram that came with the part. Attach new part to wiring harness.

Was told capacitor was problem 90% of the time.Capacior was not the problem.Bad start relay.

Followed instructions from ideoo

Like you video

Not so good that was not the problem. Fan is not seized and all the lights work and display is not on but lights up as well. No start once plugged back in after 15 minutes of being unplugged. Nothing same no change.

I spent several hours defrosting the unit. Making sure the vents were all defrosted and free of ice. The part replacement is fairly straight forward; remove the thermostat, cut two wires, reconnect the wires following color codes, attach to coil and restart. And, "Yippie!". Nothing. Zilch. Zero. Because I could not connect with the online repairman, I spent 40 bucks for nothing; problem was not resolved. Thanks for taking my money. I'm bummed and with just a little less money in my pocket. Never again will I ever purchase another Whirlpool product. Or buy from your outfit again (because of the over priced part). I replaced a 25 year old 'working' General Electric fridge for this junk that sat in the warehouse for four years before this was delivered to me in 2018 and sold to me as a "new" appliance. This was found out only when it crapped out and I needed to have it checked out for repair. Oh yea, I only had the comment section and the part recommendation to go by, and the latest comments are at least two years old. I'll be surprised if this even gets posted.

Just follow youtube examples. Work in freezer. Troubles was I didn't fix the problem. Experts say thermostat is the best one to replace (53%). Anyway they are not always right.

Simply took broken pieces of old stud out and replaced with the new ones. Used pliers to adjust them. Replace a freezer stud and a fridge stud.

removed shims on screws holding motor together, enlarged hole in mounting bracket so motor screws could also go through mounting brackets.

Each side of the door had a metal strip bracket that was held in place by 1/4" sheet metal screws apprx. 8in. apart.. the outer lip of the gasket was tightened into these brackets..loosening the screws allowed the removal of the gasket from all 4 sides and corners..It was just the process of fitting the new gasket into the brackets that took the most time..making sure the new gasket was fitted all the way in for aligned proper fit,then tightening the screws evenly around the door frame..Then, 2 weeks later, this 27-year-old refrigerator's lower compressor went out,,and the refrigerator was history! YEAH!!

with vidio

We looked up the problem online with the model number of the refrigerator. We ordered the part and followed the video installation that was sent with the order and was found online prior to purchasing

bulbs were not burnt out. received the new switch in a few days. watch the short video, was good to see how it comes out. used a putty knife to release the defective switch, removed wires put them on the new one and posed the new switch back in. Not bad Part cost $11.00 7 dollars shipping so for 17 bucks it works great. nice to see what is inside the refer!

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.