41794802301 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

the catch on the door was worn and cracked.... so I noticed it could be easily popped out with a screw driver and when the new part came in the mail 2 days later, it was just as easy to pop back in with no tools required. Now the door stays shut really good!!!

Disconect power, Removed top and front of dryer.
The broken zipper was easly removed at this point. The plastic glides easly snap out and in. The felt took some more time to scrape off and clean the old glue. Glue the new felt into place and replace front and top. The parts were shiped promptly and the dryer was out of service for only three days.

The hardest part was getting to the part and removing it and putting it back on. The schematics that you had on your website helped us locate where it needed to go and, hopefully, that will solve our problem.

Removed old guides ( some of the snap in fastners were broken off). REplaced guides by rolling drum, easy to snap in @ drum bottom each time.

removing was easy just open lower rear LH panel . Ordering was easy ,shipping seemed like alot? to install the new belt pop top of dryer I used a screw driver to help. remove front panel 2 screws then it also has about six clips may have to have gloves on so you do not skin your hands like I did.... lots of sharp edges. pay attention to the clips, so if they come off they will not be lost. panel will tilt slightly fwd then raise up and set aside. now you can slip the belt over the drum. I kept all the slack at the top till it was in position. the groved rubber side goes against the drum and the motor pully. then extend the spring tensioner into position . I rotated the drum a few times by hand to make sure everything was in position. replace front. check it is lined up well before forceing clips in. check felt material is properly in place, as you rotate it into position. push down top . good to go. I ran it for awhile watching everything work before placing it back in service. you may want to clean it out some while it is apart I used an air compressor and shop vac simultaniously as that seemed to work best. Wanted my son to do it as I think he had it over loaded as to why it broke? It maybe the bearings are going but it felt solid ?? I should find out in a month or so shich was which! I did not see any easy way to get to grease it. The belt was easy though pretty sure my son could have handled it!

i left my washer on its back till my belt came in and when it did all i had to do is slip the front off and go at it. it was really fast. then i put the front back on screwed in two screws and hooked up hoses and started washing everything went smooth till i was about to wash wash-n-wear and was like where is my other houseshoe and i remember my dog was bugging me while fixing my washer and dropped my house shoe and i already closed up front soi had to unhook everything and get that out, did not want it to catch on that belt i just bought and fixed lol thanks kristal cumpton

This repair is realy very easy
As discribed by the others

All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!

Very easy to install. Unscrew 2 screws and I was done in minutes. Thanks for the fast part delivery!

I read the last three peoples experiences when I ordered the part on your on line page. I had already made all the wrong mistakes taking the machine apart, and couldn't beleive how simplified it was on your web site. I had called a local repair shop only to be advised the part would take 4 days shipping and the price of it plus shipping was twice what I paid you. Your part arrived the day after I ordered it on line, Thanks again for being there!!!!!

Tensioner (pulley spring) replacement.

The whole tub and motor are suspended by springs so I just got a flat bar and using the edge of the bottom of the washer as a fulcrum, lifted the whole thing enough to be able to shove a 2x4 under there at the base of the dome. It was still tight getting the lock washer off the bottom of the spring axel, but it popped off by pushing the ends with two screwdrivers.

I made my job difficult by removing the back panel, then the side, and finally discovered the front panel opens giving access to the washer. Using heavy pliers I removed the spring clamps and replaced the pump to washer hose and the other hose end to the tub. Turned on the washer no leak only to discover the drain hose had developed a leak. So I ordered the second hose. I was not sure how to release the plastic retaining clamps. Finally just yanked them loose, which worked. Ran the hose through the machine out the back into the drain pipe. I was able to reattach the retaining clamps put the spring clamp on the pump end of the hose. The difficult part was getting the back, sides and front of the washing machine together that took hours.

Not having the repair manual made the repair more difficult. Prior experience made the job somewhat easy. Had to study every move to make sure no parts were not broken but overall the repair went without any problems. I found out that the bearing plate was removable to facilitate removal and replacement of the heating element. Advise if you are doing a repair of an appliance you don't know much about, take your time and everything should go well for you.

Disconnect power. Disconnect water hoses. Remove back panel. Remove top panel. Disconnect bladder ring. Disconnect control panel wire harness and control panel. Remove front panel. Disconnect hose clamps to drain hose and tub drain hose. Disconnect pump motor power supply wire. Disconnect pump screws. Now do everything in reverse replacing old pump with new.. One special note: replace factory hose clamps with new hose clamps.

Watched on-line video, then applied those steps.
1. Pop the front of the deck loose using putty knife to depress clips;
2. Disconnect wires from light and door switch;
(Before I disconnected wires from door switch and light, I made wiring sketches to make sure I reconnected in original manner.)
3. Remove lint filter mount screws and mount from bottom of door opening;
4. Cut drum belt with wire-cutters and removed it;
5. Remove drum support clip from top center of front panel;
6. Remove (1) screw from each side of dryer body that hold front to sidewalls, removed front panel;
7. Remove drum by lifting the rear out of the bearing, then moving it forward through the machine front;
[While I had the dryer disassembled, I thoroughly cleaned it of lint, dirt & metal filings. The metal filings were from the worn ball hitch and drum support bearing cup. I spent as much time cleaning it out as I did working on it.]
8. Stand drum on gallon paint bucket while removing ball hitch (Use a #2 drywall phillips apex to obtain sufficient seating & torque to remove and reinstall ball hitch screws at rear of drum.);
9. Have a second person hold the new ball hitch in position while starting screws, if necessary;
10. Use nut driver w/5/16" socket to remove bearing retainer & ground ball clip;
11. Install new bearing into retainer clip, insert attachment screws through the holes in both, stick grounding ball in depression on back of bearing as screws are fed through back panel;
12. Hold ground ball clip in place to start one screw, then the other & tighten with nut driver;
13. Start drum belt on motor shaft and position against tensioner pulley;
14. Feed drum through front of machine and loop belt over rear of drum;
15. Slide belt forward on drum as drum moves to rear to keep it aligned with position of tension pulley;
16. Lift rear of drum to place ball hitch on top of bearing, then press down to seat it into bearing;
17. Turn drum to ensure belt alignment, then re-accomplish steps 6 thru 1.