This kit includes one bearing, one ball shaft, one ball bearing, one ball bearing retainer, a small tube of high temperature lubricant, and installation screws.
This dryer lint screen is for laundry centers.
Dryer lint screen captures lint and debris from the exhaust air flowing from the dryer.
Follow the instructions in the owner's manual when installing this part.
The upper felt seal for your dryer is attached to the top edge of the drum support area, and is held there by a high temperature adhesive. It creates a seal where the dryer door opens and closes, so t...
This high limit thermostat has a limit of 260 degrees Fahrenheit. Meaning that it will cut out when the internal dryer temperature reaches 260. This thermostat cuts back in when the temperature drops ...
This part controls the temperature of the inside of the dryer drum and prevents the dryer from overheating. This part is located in the blower housing.
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. T...
$16.47
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 41761722510
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
11 questions answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
2
3
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Dan
December 27, 2019
The washer runs thru the cycle fills up washes , then drains. Fills up again then stops and beeps 3 times
For model number 41761722510
Hello Dan and thank you for writing.
3 beeps. Water leak in the tub or air leak in the water level pressure sensor air hose
Check/Repair
Check the drain hose for proper installation. An improperly installed drain hose causes fill water to siphon out through the washer drain. Manually drain the water out of the washer. Unplug the laundry center and check the washer outer tub for cracks or leaks such as water dripping from the bottom of the washer tub or a hose. Replace the tub if it leaks. If you don't find any water leaks, check the water level sensor air hose for air leaks. Replace the air hose if it leaks. If the hose doesn't leak, replace the water valve PS11703547 because it's not detecting the water level in the washer. We hope this helps. Please contact us anytime if you require further assistance.
When I start my dryer it shuts off after only a few seconds.
For model number 41761722510
Hello Kert, Thank you for the question. This can be caused by a clogged exhaust vent or Lint Duct preventing the Air Flow. We hope this helps!
1 person found this helpful.
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
Trish
May 11, 2023
Hello! I just moved into a new home and I cannot get the washer to work! I put clothes in, and press the button. It makes 3 click sounds, then 2 beeps. Then- nothing! What am I doing wrong?
For model number 41761722510
Hi Trish, thank you for reaching out. According to our research, the issue seems to be with the door catch, part number PS418433. This part works by holding the door strike, which allows the door to stay secure. The washer might be showing this error because it thinks that the door is not closed properly. As a result, the cycle may not start. We hope this information helps!
my washer/dryer combo beeps 3 times intermittently when not running. I ran thru the diagnostic test for both the washer and dryer and i believe there are no error codes recorded
For model number 41761722510
Hi Steve, thank you for reaching out. Normally, when you push a button or turn any knob there will be three beeps which indicate the unit is ready to operate. If you do not turn the knob or press any button, then the issue seems to be with the user interface board, part number PS11703856. We would recommend checking it. We hope this solves your problem!
1. Unplug dryer from outlet 2. Using Lg. flat screwdriver, pry under the front edge of the top and release two spring tabs 3. Lift up top and tilt back out of your way 4. Unscrew two phillips scews on inside of front panel 5. Lift up and out the front panel. Two spring clips at bottom. 6. Rlease tension on drum belt at the motor. Access panel at rear of dryer. 7.Unscrew 3 screws from inside, center rear of drum. 8. Remove drum through the front of the dryer. You may have to spread the sides apart a little bit for it to fit 9. Lift up on the rear drum bearing to remove it from the bearing retainer. ( U shaped plastic socket) 10. unsrew 2 screws and remove the bearing retainer, ground ball. Ball retainer is on outside of dryer. 11. Vacuum everything--duct, blower, lint trap, ect. 12. Intall new bearing retainer and grounding ball, an assistant is helpful at this time, one to hold ball retainer on rear of dryer, one to screw it in from the inside 13. reassemble remainder of parts in reverse order.
For the glide, I want to advise people that to replace the entire glide you need to order two front drum glide parts as each is only half.
First, unplug the dryer. Then, open the top so that you can get access to the work area. On each side of the inside front, there is a screw that connects the front panel to the side panels. Unscrew those screws and pull the front panel until it disconnects from the side panels. Be careful as there are wires that are secured to the bottom of the top inside lip of the front panel. One set of wires goes to the light bulb in the dryer door. You don't need to disconnect the wires, but be sure you don't damage the wires by pulling the front panel too far away from the dryer.
Once you have the front panel out of the way, you can see the front drum glide. In my case, one half was loose as the plastic plugs that pop into recesses to hold the glide in place had broken off. Remove the damaged glide section and replace it with the new section, popping the plastic plugs into the recesses. Don't be afraid to slap the glide to lock the plugs in place.
For the felt, I cut the part of the old felt that was pulling away from the front panel. I then used a flat-head screwdriver and wire brush to remove as much of the old adhesive as I could. Then, using the high-heat adhesive that came with the new felt, I put a generous amount on the front panel where the felt needed to go. I used a toothpick to spread the adhesive to get maximum area coverage. I let it set for a minute or two, and then placed the new felt. I used small clamps to keep the felt in place until the adhesive had time to bond. I only kept the clamps in place for 10 minutes.
Once I removed the clamps, I let the felt continue to adhere to the front panel for 24 hours before reassembling the dryer. Again, be careful of the wires connected to the front panel as it appears very easy for them to be pinched or cut when putting the front panel back in place.
When the dryer was reassembled, I plugged it back in and have had no more troubles.
1) Removed Top Dryer Cover (pushed 2 compression clips on front side 1" from top and 2" in from each side) to gain access to terminal block in rear. 2) Removed 2 screws over terminal block cover and 2 screws holding bad terminal block in place. Removed 3 screws holding bad power cord, 3) Removed good terminal connectors from bad terminal block and reinstalled them in the new terminal block. 4) Cut dryer wire from bad terminal block connector and soldered (optional) them to the new terminal block connector. Installed this connector into the new terminal block. 5) Installed new terminal block in dryer with 2 screws. 6) Installed new power cord on new terminal block ensuring contacts were tight and cord had pull guard properly installed. Reinstalled terminal block cover with 2 screws. 7) Reinstalled Dryer Top Cover.
